Me and my facts… Pppfff! @torqueboards surprised me with a brand new v4 kit & 12mm belt. Got the kit this morning! Thanks Dexter!
All I’m missing is my VESC. I’ll post more pictures this weekend.
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Right on! Better than what you were expecting! I’m stoked to hear you got hooked up!
Ok, so I couldn’t handle the excitement of working on my eSK8 yesterday. Here is an update on my build. I think it goes to show how much you guys have been teaching newcomers. I had little to no stress handling all the following steps.
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I started with the DIY V4 mount and pulleys & wheel
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Mark the pinion location on the drive shaft and grind flats. As suggested by the Intrawebs, I wrapped my motor in a TON of tape. + added extra eye protection.
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Remounted the whole thing with added thread lock. I used Blue, will it hold?
Voila, that is pretty much it for the mechanical part of things. @torqueboards V4 kit is really sweet and I strongly recommend it. Not that I am a pro or anything 
but I am having so much fun doing this, I can tell you now, this is the 1st of many.
Moving on to the electrical
Here are my mean green batteries.
My motor only supports up to 8s so I went for 2 4s 10.0ah which I’ll put in series. Both came with XT90 plugs, which I had to swap up with XT60 for consistency stake.
If you have to do this, ALWAYS DO ONE WIRE AT A TIME! ;). Again, something I learned from you guys.
That is pretty much it for now, I’ll start building the wiring and enclosure next while I wait for my VESC from @chaka.
And now for a few questions.
- For my Antispark loop key, should it be wired on the Positive wire or negative wire?
- I got this fuse box (below), should it be on the positive or negative wire?
Note, I intend to add both Loopkey and fuse on the wires between the VESC and batteries.
Thanks for the help guys.
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Normally everyone uses the positive wire but it does not matter that much… But keep in mind that the XT-90S is not polarity safe. So be carefull that you will plug/solder it in correct!
Just look at the loop key! This diagram shows a wrong wiring for the loop key. The cables in this diagram needs to be switched.
I hope you get what i want to explain 
I think I get it :). I’ll do a diagram before hand and add it here for you guys to confirm. Got to say, I don’t want to take any chances with the electrical, that is the thing that scares me the most ;).
Do you mean that it has to be like this: http://www.electricrc.co.kr/shop/images/ETC/AMASS/XT90S-03.jpg with the resistor being on the red +line?
Also I don’t think that a loopkey would care about polarity. Why should it matter? it just connects two lines and lets current flow through. It does not have a load attached to it but is just a “switch” - and it does not matter how you mount a switch.
Also what do you mean by “But when we Look at the Battery cables they go the other way to the Esc”? They are not different. You connect + and GND just like the batteries present it to you. I am really confused with what you are showing us here and don’t see the problem in the diagram.
Edit: I also just read the entire thread about the polarity of your loopkey. Everybody told you that there is nothing wrong with the wiring and that there is no polarity of the loop key. Why are giving false information to other builders?
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Kudos for proper eye protection!
Thank, this makes more sense. Its a simple loop, either on the Negative or Positive, doesn’t matter right? Just double checking… 
personally not 100% sure but yeah that is what I think as well.
Not with my mounts. 15mm works well
@EpicCel - The hub of the mount or clamp is towards the inside/center of the truck.
Last photo it looked correct though.
LOL! Yup, good catch and no, it is still reversed. Works pretty well though ;). I couldn’t get the clamp farther into the truck for some reason without requiring grinding, which I didn’t want to do on my beautiful Calibers.
So I guessed it was the other way around. Guessed wrong. Think it will cause issues?
Is it because of your motor and short motor shaft why you did that? That’s one of the reasons why I didn’t go 15mm. Going 15mm, everyone would have to use my motor or a motor with a longer motor shaft.
It would be much harder to fix your board with the bolt holes on the opposite side and not as much clamping force to secure the motor mount. I’d personally mount them the right way IMO.
My shaft is actually just right. I’ll still do the tweak.
Quick question, do I really have to grind the truck to get the clamp in? Or simply lightly hammering it in could do the trick?
Thanks again.
I started on 9mm and ate the belts during braking. Depending on how fast you ride you normally need to stop faster than accelerate. If someone pulls out in front of you ect. I also started on 12:36, but there wasn’t enough tooth engagement on the motor pulley (was trying to keep top speed down). I went to 14:36 and that helped some but kept eating belts. 15mm now and on the first belt still. Stopping from 25+ mph is more important than getting there in my point of view.
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Are you using the heatshrink is that why you can’t get it in more?
You should be able to get it in all the way before the tapered center.
More photos would help. I’ll be releasing more videos soon.
No, didn’t use the Heatshrink. Actually, I have no idea why you included it other then giving me some heatshrink for my 3 motor wire ;). Yup, I am a noob. What was it for?
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Here is a little update for you all.
So, as you know my batteries are HUGE. I need range so I want doe these.
Problem is finding a case / enclosure to put these things in was quite a challenge. I finally found this at Home Depot…
I had to Dremel the crap out of it and cut out a few holes for my fuse and XT-90s Loopkey. Good news it, everything fits perfectly and I still have a lot of clearance under the board thanks to the 90mm Flywheel clones.
Now for attaching the whole thing to the board. Drilled 4 holes through the board and inserted a truck hardware.
Since this boars has a bit of flex, I added 4 rubber grommets so to give the box a bit of leg room.
And here is the result…
Next up, wiring and eventually the VESC, which has yet to ship.
Stay tuned…