I tested my board without the battery compartment cover and remote range was MUCH improved. I could hold the remote over my head and it still worked! I also looked at the position of my foot and it was behind the receiver, which is to say it was not in the way at all. So I think that nails the problem down to the battery compartment cover. Thank you so much for offering to send out new ones. That’s just awesome. 
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First of all I don’t want to be a big downer but I just got my raptor today and spent some time getting this bad boy going. Well the first thing I did was trying to get the space cell to turn on and it would flash on for a second and turn off as soon as I let go of the button. So I tried to hold the button down and it would come up to 93%. But as soon as I let go nothing. After hearing of other people having this same issue I believe I have a faulty switch. So I went ahead and held the switch Down and checked the drive and remote and everything checked out just great. So I know Jason is probably overwhelmed with first run issues but have to add one more to your list. My order number is 1550 if that helps. Also welling to save you some shipping if you want to sale me this defected space cell.
@Glenn where are you located?
If you are in the states, an enertion Rep can fix your battery switch for you. Jason would pay the postage for you to send the battery to get fixed, and you would be able to have it back in a relatively quick amount of time.
I’m willing to help you out here on the west coast if you need it. I live in San Francisco. I haven’t used the VESC or SPACE cell yet, but I will be messing with the 2 VESC’s I have this weekend (as I need to finish my high end build ASAP), and I have a SPACE cell coming next week. And I have figured out the tricks behind getting your motor mounts/the rspec/your mechanical system working well on my last build
The box it came in was a little beat up and I got rid of it, so not sure how I would send or package batteries. Would it make more since to send a new battery with return postage paid and I send the defected space cell back in the box it came in. Same cost, happy customer. Win Win.
can’t ship batteries more than 99wh overseas… unless it’s directly from the factory.
we will see what jason wants to do.
btw, boosted and Enertion are very different companies. Boosted boards is about money. While any company wants to profit, Enertion cares way more about about quality. Look at those little motors on boosted vs enertions beefy rspec motors. Not to mention the space cell and VESC are top of the line. And enertion is community based, and everything is open source. I emailed boosted about their parts and they emailed me back telling me they can not disclose details about their electronics. Very different companies and I doubt they would be willing to help the eskate community.
Background so you don’t think I’m a noob rider. I’ve been skating for over 10 years, I frequently ride a normal longboard to work.
Picked up the board at 6:30pm in San Francisco! Had the battery already charged so I plugged the nunchuck into my computer. hour later, couldn’t figure out how to pair the remote to the board. Figured out to hold the A button and the LED turns red on one side and green on the other. Success 
This thing flies! Torque is out of this world. immediately, noticed the remote is not sensitive. Most of the time I had to push the stick forward about 1cm before it would make the engines turn on. Also the remote seems “all or none” meaning that I can’t go at a constant middle speed. With the Boosted board, pressing the trigger foward 2mm made the board go 4mph, trigger 4mm made the board go 8mph… With this the board pushing the stick forward makes the board go 30mph or nothing at all. Whatever, I got used to this quickly by pulsing the throttle. To brake, the remote is not sensitive either… I found myself having to push the stick about 0.5cm back before the braking kicks on. I got used to this… Or so I thought.
After about 1 hour of riding, I was confident bombing at full speed and decided to slow down. I eased the brake 0.5cm and nothing. I let the stick come back to neutral and I tried it again very slowly. At the normal 0.5cm, I felt the brake kick in so I held it… but suddenly, I felt the brake RELEASE and THEN it started to brake again. I lurched and flew off my board thank god no obstacles. I rolled about 3 or 4 times as I was going top speed. I limped home after that.
I looked over this thread and found others having problems with the remote. This problem is scary. It’s concerning that the remote isn’t very sensitive… Meaning I have to push it forward 1 cm before makes the engines turn on. Now I’m worried if the remote un-pairs at top speed… That could be dangerous. But what happened on my ride seems worse. it was like the signal got lost for a split second and then reconnected as I was braking.
Like I said, during the first hour I got used to the looseness of the remote… I don’t like it but I got used to its. I would rather the remote activate the motor as soon as I move the stick forward 1 mm rather than having to push the stick 1cm forward before it activates. Anyways then I got used to the brakes and having to move the stick about 0.5cm backwards for the brakes to begin to work.
But damn… I haven’t had a fall that bad in years. Mostly because I was going max speed. And the braking did something completely unexpected. I put over 100 miles on the trial boosted board that I rented for a month without a fall because the remote never came unpaired and the sensitivity was predictable.
I’m gonna keep trying this out tmr. But God, I don’t know if I can trust the remote to be paired when I need it… I don’t know if I can trust the remote to brake when I need it. And thus…don’t know if it’s safe to go at top speed again. The fall really freaked me out and I have a hard time believing this was my fault…
I believe Jason is spot on with the cause of the remote connectivity woes. Try your board without the lid and I’ll bet it works way better.
understood. I guess my questions are:
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Is the remote truly all or none? As im testing it the board’s remote has two speeds: off or full speed. The remote may as well be an on/off switch.
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is this a faulty remote that I have to push the stick forward 1 cm before the engines turn on?
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Now that I’m playing with the board upside down… I notice that every 10 times I hit the stick forward, nothing happens and I have to let the stick come back to neutral and then hit the stick forward again… How do I fix this?
I took the cover off. Same issue. Now, I notice that sometimes when I pulse the brake and release the brake, the brake CONTINUES to stay braking… Even though I’ve released it.
That might be connection issues. Remember that the board is made of carbon fiber, which messes with the 2.4 ghz signal. I haven’t heard of anyone else having that issue. I am waiting for the controller to arrive myself to test it out. Watching Jason’s videos of accelerating with the remote seem promising.
I don’t believe its an all or nothing remote, but I can’t confirm since I have yet to test this remote out. I am hoping not, seeing as I am using using motors which are capable of 45 mph+ in the board I’m building now, and that would make this remote useless for me.
In my very limited experience with the remote, while it doesn’t quite have the finesse I’d like, I don’t have to push it that far for it to engage. Same on the braking. More gradation for the remote lever, and/or actuation using a ramp up curve (as opposed to linear), would likely be helpful.
Ok I’ll try reprogram. But that’s not really the problem… Ramp up to top speed is fine I actually like it. It’s the fact that when the throttle is activated it’s 100% speed or its Zero. Is this your experience?
It might be possible to adjust that somehow through the settings of the VESC, though I can’t confirm. The VESCs are feature rich and open source, so it wouldn’t surprise me if you could. However, I would not recommend prodding around the settings without following a guide (unless you really know what you are doing).
Wow great feedback and awesome customers! Congrats on all your guy’s new boards.
Sorry I wasn’t more clear. I was saying that was not my experience.
I think you just haven’t gotten used to the controller… it’s sensitive right in the middle and for a very small range, but I got to the point in which I felt like i could control it at 3 different speeds at a constant rate. Like a slow, medium and fast.
Hi guys, I know you all want to ride at full speed on this, but there is a CONFIRMED ISSUE with the pure carbon fiber lid blocking signals. 10 of you out of approx 30 have full carbon fiber lids, 20 of you have half Cf half Fiber Glass. Signal will likely drop out if you tend to ride with your hands up high.
Once again I didn’t test it riding with my hands up high, i never ride like that i always have my hand low… its stupid that I didn’t test for this… i am realising that i clearly didn’t think of everything before releasing this.
Please be careful until I can arrange new lids.
P.S. I just spent three hours riding the mono raptor side-by-side with a boosted board for a new compare video i am making. Not one drop out, not one problem with the brake on the Raptor…
I think what is happening to a lot of you is you are not used to the sensitivity of the remote… this remote operates in millimeters not centimeters, just like the GT-2B that many people use & love… So Please don’t jerk on the brake or the accelerator, you WILL crash. Please think about how you drive your car, you jump in and slowly accelerate to a desired speed, when braking you apply the brake lightly until you come to a controlled stop. If you pull the brake on hard the board will instantly brake, the regen current limit will be hit and the motor controller will stop controlling the motor and it will release it. meaning you lurch forward again and go flying…
if you haven’t watch this video please watch it now.
EDIT: I stand corrected and I apologize… As Jason said the sensitivity is in millimeters not centimeters. I just filmed a video to send to Jason of the “all or nothing” with my remote and I can clearly see the remote is more sensitive than I made it out to be.
Understood, I’ll keep playing with it. As I said, I feel like I’ve learned where the stick activates the motors both for acceleration and braking.
I experience the issue with braking, whatever the sensitivity, in that braking is “all or none”, when I push the stick just enough to activate the brake, it brakes fully. It isn’t possible for me to do a controlled stop.
Same with the acceleration. Even when I baby the throttle forward, nothing. nothing. nothing. then WHAM! there’s a point where all of a sudden the motors activate at full strength… it is not possible for me to accelerate slowly unless I pulse the throttle.