Enertion Raptor | First Batch Problems & Solutions

I’m pretty sure thread locking the bolts on the motor mount would fix your problem. Your diagram even points to that as being the fault with the angle occurring where the truck meets the mount.

If your two bolts holding the mount onto the truck become loose, the mount will no longer be straight, hence the belt rubbing.

You are correct sir. Only one thing, ALL bolts/screws have threadlocker and haven’t come loose since. I dont see why its so hard to understand the concept of something bending smh… For your information i was the original post that told everyone to check their decks for threadlocker. The threadlock issue was only my first with this board.

I am not trying to update the firmware. I am only trying to update the settings as advised by Jason, and change the drive control mode (to hopefully make it easier to go slower at a steady pace and to make the cruise control more functional). However, at this point I am dead in the water. The software does not appear to be compatible with Windows 10 (I’ve tried 2 machines so far), and the virtual com port driver JUST. DOES. NOT. WORK. SOOOOOOO frustrating…

I think it’s really awesome of Jason to arrange for personal help with the BLDC tool, but unless I can get the VCP (virtual com port) driver working, it’s worthless. Something that seems so simple to do just shouldn’t be this hard (it connects via USB - why isn’t it just recognized??). THAT’s one of the troubles with open source stuff though. I know there are a lot of positives to open source, and generally speaking, I’m a fan, but there ARE negatives as well.

I guess I’ll just wait… :frowning:

Move your motor mount 2mm closer to the wheel, that should solve your angle issue.

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Actually any closer and the belt would touch the wheel. When the motor is not parallel to the truck axle, the belt will always try and move(in my case rubbing on the pulley flange). Moving the motor assembly side to side isn’t going to fix an unparalleled issue.

You seem capable and I guessing you might already have tried, in case you haven’t, did you try compatibility mode? I haven’t read about this solving issues with BLDC, it’s just a thought. I have an old Nokia Booklet that I installed Windows 10 on before advised. I had to run the graphics driver installation in Windows 7 compatibility mode to install it. Their was a newer driver trying to install, but it didn’t work. The installation would fail for the old driver when done normally. After installation the driver works fine, for me, in Windows 10.

If you have tried it, was it for installation and running it, or just one or the other? Anyhow, its just a thought. I’ve seen other’s reporting no issues with BLDC on Windows 10 at the same time as some reports of issues. Maybe you can find a solution.

You could install Virtualbox 5.0, create a Ubuntu virtual machine and run the Linux flavor of BLDC.

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Ok Ive been riding some more and I feel the controller does only have an all go or nothing set up like some of the others owners have commented on. Appreciate that Onloop is saying the controller works in mm, but mm from 0,straight to full throttle. Thats how it feels.

When I bench test the cruise funcrion it seems to only stay on the top speed. This seems to be on the track as well. There doesnt seem to be a cruise setting that can be feathered up to. It just cruises only on full throttle. This has to be incorrect.

Oh and that grip tape hurts.:grimacing: Im running out of bandaids,

i just hooked it up to the battery the first time and unfortunately i experience exactly the same. it’s either full throttle or no throttle at all. with the slightest movement of the throttle stick it goes full speed.

i’ll check if switching the channel or rebinding the remote is helping. (edit: switching channels didn’t)

edit: not sure if this is relevant. the receiver inside the board is always flashing red quickly when the remote is not powered on. when the remote is powered on the red blinking stays but slows down. the remote itself shows a red light on the left side and a green light on the right.

could someone with a working throttle check if it’s the same for them please?

Receiver Fast blinking red LED = signal from controller OK Slow blinking red LED = signal from controller NOT OK

EDIT: at least that’s how my receiver works, @Howser informed me his blinks slow when there’s a signal from the controller…

Controller Left LED is red = signal to receiver OK Left LED is green = signal to receiver NOT OK Left LED is blinking green = cruise control engaged

God how I hate this inverted Chinese logic. Green led should be a sign that all is well and red should indicate lost connection.

Changing channels will only help improve reception, you’ll need to change settings in the VESC to get the most out of it. PM me if you need help.

are you testing this with load or on the bench?

bench. i didn’t dare to get on it with these throttle characteristics. shall i try? sorry i compared it to my other boards which have a very smooth speed gain even on the bench

it will perform differently when under load, testing on the bench in current mode is not a fair test

(see my edit) yes will do then! off we go! wish me luck :smiley:

please check all the bolts first!!!

also, watch my video about how to stand when accelerating hard

yes i did! thanks though. mine was actually very tight, only the trucks i was able to tighten a bit luckily i automated the leaning forwards / backwards by now

if i don’t report back in an hour, call an ambulance

I rode for 3 hours yesterday with a carbon fiber lid on the board, no drop outs!.. you all think the accelerator is too sensitive… but honestly it’s just due to the huge torque output… just don’t jam the trigger forward and you will all be ok!

i’m still alive! so is the board! made some videos and will describe the behavior later today.

Onloop…everyone, and I mean everyone except you is saying that throttle curve on the remote is garbage. Onloop this is where you are wrong… I challenge anyone to try can keep a constant speed of 12mph, or 14mph or 18mph or 25mph. The point is that you can’t, while litterally moving my finger half a mm every time, I was only able to obtain a constant 15mph, 20mph, then 28mph. There is no in between Onloop. Go ahead make a video mr perfect rider(Onloop), because I know you can’t. So sad that Onloop is trying to play everyone for a fool. Not me Onloop, I’m on to you