I’m pretty sure thread locking the bolts on the motor mount would fix your problem. Your diagram even points to that as being the fault with the angle occurring where the truck meets the mount.
If your two bolts holding the mount onto the truck become loose, the mount will no longer be straight, hence the belt rubbing.
You are correct sir. Only one thing, ALL bolts/screws have threadlocker and haven’t come loose since. I dont see why its so hard to understand the concept of something bending smh… For your information i was the original post that told everyone to check their decks for threadlocker. The threadlock issue was only my first with this board.
I am not trying to update the firmware. I am only trying to update the settings as advised by Jason, and change the drive control mode (to hopefully make it easier to go slower at a steady pace and to make the cruise control more functional). However, at this point I am dead in the water. The software does not appear to be compatible with Windows 10 (I’ve tried 2 machines so far), and the virtual com port driver JUST. DOES. NOT. WORK. SOOOOOOO frustrating…
I think it’s really awesome of Jason to arrange for personal help with the BLDC tool, but unless I can get the VCP (virtual com port) driver working, it’s worthless. Something that seems so simple to do just shouldn’t be this hard (it connects via USB - why isn’t it just recognized??). THAT’s one of the troubles with open source stuff though. I know there are a lot of positives to open source, and generally speaking, I’m a fan, but there ARE negatives as well.
Actually any closer and the belt would touch the wheel. When the motor is not parallel to the truck axle, the belt will always try and move(in my case rubbing on the pulley flange). Moving the motor assembly side to side isn’t going to fix an unparalleled issue.
You seem capable and I guessing you might already have tried, in case you haven’t, did you try compatibility mode? I haven’t read about this solving issues with BLDC, it’s just a thought. I have an old Nokia Booklet that I installed Windows 10 on before advised. I had to run the graphics driver installation in Windows 7 compatibility mode to install it. Their was a newer driver trying to install, but it didn’t work. The installation would fail for the old driver when done normally. After installation the driver works fine, for me, in Windows 10.
If you have tried it, was it for installation and running it, or just one or the other? Anyhow, its just a thought. I’ve seen other’s reporting no issues with BLDC on Windows 10 at the same time as some reports of issues. Maybe you can find a solution.
Ok Ive been riding some more and I feel the controller does only have an all go or nothing set up like some of the others owners have commented on. Appreciate that Onloop is saying the controller works in mm, but mm from 0,straight to full throttle. Thats how it feels.
When I bench test the cruise funcrion it seems to only stay on the top speed. This seems to be on the track as well. There doesnt seem to be a cruise setting that can be feathered up to. It just cruises only on full throttle. This has to be incorrect.
Oh and that grip tape hurts. Im running out of bandaids,
i just hooked it up to the battery the first time and unfortunately i experience exactly the same.
it’s either full throttle or no throttle at all. with the slightest movement of the throttle stick it goes full speed.
i’ll check if switching the channel or rebinding the remote is helping. (edit: switching channels didn’t)
edit: not sure if this is relevant. the receiver inside the board is always flashing red quickly when the remote is not powered on. when the remote is powered on the red blinking stays but slows down. the remote itself shows a red light on the left side and a green light on the right.
could someone with a working throttle check if it’s the same for them please?
bench. i didn’t dare to get on it with these throttle characteristics. shall i try?
sorry i compared it to my other boards which have a very smooth speed gain even on the bench
yes i did! thanks though. mine was actually very tight, only the trucks i was able to tighten a bit
luckily i automated the leaning forwards / backwards by now
if i don’t report back in an hour, call an ambulance
I rode for 3 hours yesterday with a carbon fiber lid on the board, no drop outs!.. you all think the accelerator is too sensitive… but honestly it’s just due to the huge torque output… just don’t jam the trigger forward and you will all be ok!
Onloop…everyone, and I mean everyone except you is saying that throttle curve on the remote is garbage. Onloop this is where you are wrong… I challenge anyone to try can keep a constant speed of 12mph, or 14mph or 18mph or 25mph. The point is that you can’t, while litterally moving my finger half a mm every time, I was only able to obtain a constant 15mph, 20mph, then 28mph. There is no in between Onloop. Go ahead make a video mr perfect rider(Onloop), because I know you can’t. So sad that Onloop is trying to play everyone for a fool. Not me Onloop, I’m on to you