I prefer staring at it for a few more days 
The weather is bad and my board is not 100% finished
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When do you use Infinity and when Vertigo? Only a price thing?
Infinity is just the strongest Badboy outthere… for MTB i prefer them…
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Fantastic shop and products. Great work.
What are the pros and cons of each setup (Belt, Chain or Direct Drive)? I imagine Belt is quiet but less efficient and belts can get damaged. Chain is similar but bullet proof and chains don’t stretch. Direct Drive is noisier but more efficient, bullet proof and responsive?
What would you recommend for a street / urban carver? Would you recommend something different for an off road mountain version?
Many thanks.
@Nowind I saw it once before. But I can’t find it now. What oil/lubrication do you recommend for my direct drive
@gbutcher Thanks Gary, glad you like it. Belt is great for Streetsetups, also Offroad with dry dirt is absolutely okay IMO… you get problems with a unsealed belt in wet and muddy conditions… autumn europeen woods are full of fallen leaves and mud and will kill your belts fast…
Chain is not that silent like a belt, but fully offroad compatible, smaller interference contour to the ground caused due the smaller width of the chain… if a chain break or jump of it can block the wheel, this could be dangerous… the new Chaindrives which listed in the shops is with ISO-06 Chains which are not prone to break… big bad stuff (-:
Direct Drive only downside IMO is the noise, its louder then Belts for sure. Some people think it sounds like a Jedi Fighter (-: other say its a bit annoying… for me offroad it was never a issue… for street i would prefer something more stealthy… in generell you get with the Direct Drive a heavy duty super drivetrain, sealed, compact and strong as hell… even with 80mm Motors and sick ESC Settings i was not able to kill the gears… no WAY … i would except thousends of kilometers
Two Direct Drives actually : Regular has 1:5 Gearing, massive POM Housings, could be used also with 80mm Motors with adapters, 8Inch compatible, for pure MTB fun i prefer this.
Mini Direct Drive is 1:4 Gearing, lighter POM Housing… could be used with up to 6384 motors, compatible from 5Inch (Trampa Gummies) up to 8Inch… best drive for a Hybrid build One for all IMO …
If you want a pure street machine i prefer the Street Carver with my Belt Drive on 107mm Abecs… Hybrid Build i would choose the Mini Drive Full Zombie Apocalypse Mode is with the Direct Drive on 8Inch
Up to You 
@barajabali Most people uses white lithium grease Also Chain Lube Stuff from Bikes is fine I actually use “archoil ar8300” … expensice high performance stuff, dont know if it worth but Archie a rider from NY swears on it :
Have a great Day Jens
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Thanks for that. I’ll check that stuff out, I was thinking of uses a motor oil because it’s pretty thin and can spread across the gears easily. It may even help with noise. Any thoughts on that?
Good discussion about lube, I’m also curious what’s best. Maybe an oil-based lube (which doesn’t harm rubber/plastic) stays longer on the gears than a thicker grease but maybe the grease kills more noise and is better against wear than oil because of more material. But I have no idea 
If my name was Archie I would love Archoil, too 
Maybe you could sell “Jensoil” as optional product in you shop 
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Thanks for the awesome response. Decision time…
Now I feel like I should conduct a test. I was thinking motor oil because it’s thin, you wouldn’t need a lot of it in the gear box, maybe half a cup or less. The oil will be whisked around in the gearbox when the wheels spin which would cost every surface, protecting and suppressing sound (I think) and motor oil would add almost no drag since no it’s so much thinner than grease.
@Nowind would motor oil drop out of a direct drive or is it pretty well sealed given that it is installed properly?
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motor oil is too thin, soon as you hit high rpm it will be on the case. also it may contain stuff that will degrade the pom.
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Yea but it’s thin enough that it will pool to the bottom from gravity and the main gear will pick it right back up.
I think this whisking action is exactly what this direct drive needs.
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Would need a gasket in the case to try. I’d do some research on what POM is compatible with. Lithium grease or wax is ok from memory, but some oils with cause the POM to break down.
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My research is telling me that POM is pretty great against chemical damage.
Motor oil should be okay. I wish I had a piece of Pom other than my gears to test with
I got a customer who adds a gasket and startet to use some thin oil stuff… But dont know how it turns out in the long term
Without a gasket it will run trogh the gearbox,
I would stay with some thicker grease
Do you/will you sell replacement gears for the direct drive and what would a set cost?
Contemplating if it’s worth it to go direct drive in the future. By estimation, I would get 5 months worth of riding out of it based on the 2000 km mentioned on your website.
I think I gonna order this which you also recommended
For the v-ring I have PTFE spray already.
Is it neccessary to open and clean the drivetrain from time to time when riding in dusty and muddy environments?
Got replacements of course… wheelspur 65€… motorspur 25€ …
You ride 2000km in 5month? You can do long term testing… document your rides via Gps… if you kill your gears in one year … about 5000km… you get complete replacemeent kit for free 
How does it sound?
@rich
Will be fine…
Maybe you find some richoil 
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Good deal. I’ll save up some cash and will get back to you.
Yes, I do around 2000 in 5 months. Only shitty weather holds me back (drizzle & light snowfall is ok). To work and back is around 20 KM and I often go on 30 KM trips during the weekend (hilly area with dirt roads & height differences of 500 meter).
Belts lasted around 200 KM, alu wheel pulley around 400 (switched to steel…will see). Replacement belts & wheel pulleys alone has been somewhat expensive, thus looking to switch to either chain or direct drive for my next build (also cause belt drive is just impossible in the snow).
You can get cute with oil if you know what the friction modifiers, acids and added metals are. I used to run my motard and dirt bikes on synthetic diesel oil bought by the barrel instead of the gallon. Commercial oils are not just oil. A oil bath will make the drive quieter, but then the gear is swimming through oil so it will cause more drag.
Hydraulic oil, transformer oil and tallow are all rated “c” as poor according to the above link. Anything caustic was rated as not recomended at all. I had done some research on some academic engineering papers initially, their std would only be to use “a” or highly recommended lubricant. In that context you could use the above in diy with a accepted rate of failure. Where as the engineer accepts no perceived failure.
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