@Michaelinvegas & @treenutter, the M4 bolts are a great idea. I was gonna upgrade those on the motor pulley, but it didn’t even dawn on me to use them for this application. My only concern would be the balance of the rotor, since the screw holes aren’t exactly 180 degrees from each other. On a motor pulley, we can use two bolts 180 degrees from each other to maintain balance. Maybe it’s too small to make a difference, but on the Tacon, the screw holes are inside 2 of the 5-spokes on the rotor, but kind of across the shaft from each other. On the SK3, it’s a little worse, since the screw holes are inside adjacent “spokes.” Hopeully, it’s a non-issue though since the bolts are so small and so close to the shaft.
On my own motors, I switch the M3 threading to an M4 threading. I use actual M4 bolts vs set screws to apply more clamping force.
This was a common issue with RC motors. I would have the motor casing shift.
I’d like to do one better and build in a retainer on the motor shaft + keyway and M4 bolt on my next batch of motors.
1 Like
Would you suggest this with the 6355 motors and drive system you sell? This is good info to know. Thank you! @Mobutusan Thanks for posting this thread!
1 Like
Yeah, it was always an issue with RC motors but switching out to a bolt vs set screw definitely helps. Once I switched it out, it wouldn’t shift as much.
What length bolts do you use in place of the rotor/shaft set screws? And also, what length bolts do you use on your motor pulleys?
Noice! Gonna have to get my screw on soon. I tightened and threadlocked the crap out of my set screws and they still slightly slip under heavy load. My 20/36 gearing probably doesn’t help though.
20 huh? Lol is that so you have enough speed for the on ramp?
Only if the speed limit is 25mph. 
It’s my attempt at hitting the 25mph mark with my 6s, single 245kv setup. I thought my 16/36 setup would get me there, but only made it to around 22mph, which isn’t quite scary enough for me. For some reason, I want to know that my board can go fast enough to terrify and mame me, but then back off to a comfortable, realistic riding speed. I guess I just don’t want to feel limited by anything other than myself. I’ll be jumping up to 9s with all of the 3s batteries I have, as soon as I get my hands on a capable ESC, and this whole speed thing will be a non-issue.
Also, I accidentally found out that with 20/36, I can get my 6364 SK3 up to about 200*F by doing 4000mah worth of speed runs up and down the court I live on. 
I’m quickly learning what NOT to do. It’s a lot of fun! 
Hahah just go 12s and call it a day…
I would go 12s, but I already have two 245kv motors, and I don’t wanna die…
Lol don’t trust yourself?
Well for your board’s sake at least move up to 10s lol…
Did a test ride …cranked on them hard… Harder than I ever did before…didn’t budget … Hope it works for you
Awesome work guys! I have a similar build and this info is super helpful. Cheers!
Fine, I’ll do 12s. For the board’s sake. I thought anything over 200kv on 12s would cause magic smoke fairies to appear, but maybe that’s just for VESC’s?
Oh, thanks. That’s good to know. I really want to try moving up to a 12s ESC, but aside from the unknown wait times for the VESC, I’m afraid of accidentally frying it.
if I’m not mistaken, 10s/12s has benefits beyond the capability to reach a higher top speed. I think it has something to do with efficiency or heatloss or something, but basically your batteries will be less strained when hitting 25mph if their only running at 70% throttle via you over engineering it than if you make it so that 100% throttle is 25mph.
Do you re-Tap the M3 thread to M4 ??