[DONE] ~ Bad Hand | Santa Cruz Screaming Hand | 180mm Rev Kingpin Trucks | DIY 5055 280KV | Chinese Mount | TorqueBoards 120A 6S ESC

http://www.ollinboardcompany.com

http://m.ebay.com/itm/Neo-C6364-KV245-OUTRUNNER-BRUSHLESS-MOTOR-2320W-Plus-Accsesories-/311463844903?nav=SEARCH

And I just found this one dunno if it is good but It looks like a fake turnigy http://m.ebay.com/itm/GForce-G160-Brushless-Outrunner-Motor-for-RC-Airplanes-10S-LiPO-6364-230KV-/142058908306?nav=SEARCH

This I like, Ill look into it a bit more in depth when I leave work. thanks

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Or just check out the commonly used parts thread

you’ll likely have some “cogging” or stuttering when starting froma full stop regardless. Not a huge deal if you give a kick or two it should go away. If it doesn’t then you can adjust some of the ESC settings to try to fix, or move to another motor/esc combo.

50mm motors work pretty well - i wouldn’t focus on top speed so much and 280kv is a bit high IMO. But should work. Since you already have it - i’d use it until you know more about what you want.

In your electrical section - i don’t see the programming card noted for the 120a 6s ESC? You’ll need that. You absolutely will need to adjust the brakes and possibly other settings w/ it to get this working for you.

Your deck has a short wheelbase - i’d consider mounting the trucks to the angled sections at each end like @RunPlayBack did - it will be a bit more “turny” w/ the additional angle, but also a lot more stable (longer wheelbase) and give you more room inbetween the trucks for electronics. (likely around 14" WB now).

here’s his build to look at and see if it inspires you:

I see some links to motors - i’d double check that any motor you get is 8mm shaft vs 10mm shaft (the Neo @Nooby ebay linked is 10mm it looks like). Not a huge deal, except all the gears we typically use are 8mm. Yes you can get some 10mm from APS and elsewhere - but a more limited selection or need to modify to fit. I stick to 8mm as a result.

Can’t go wrong with Ollin’s - just verify the motor mount holes will fit your mount (38mm iirc).

Also recommend the common parts thread, and @onloop’s build videos for some common recommendations (like gear calculators etc.) Just take the unavoidable enertion branding (it’s what he’s using - it works, and obviously what he has) in stride - realizing that almost any other similar motor/mount/battery will work if specs line up.

GL!

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I have that same motor and FVT ESC, and because of the sensored operation, it starts up perfectly smooth. I don’t have any hills here in south florida, but did go up a pretty steep driveway once, and it got up fine. I have 13/36T gearing.

Ok maybe just mine was shitty (turnigy quality faults probably)

I figured I’d be kicking off to start anyways with a single motor build, not really one of my criteria anyways. I just want a decent top speed and as long a battery run as I can get.

I like the way the trucks are mounted at an angle, looks pretty mean.

This deck has a pretty good concave shape and it isn’t very flexy so I’ve not had any issues using it normally. My logic was get a shorter deck for better turn-ability at low speeds, but I will confess I’m a little worried about wobble at higher speeds. After I get the board powered and test it, I’m pretty sure Ill go back and do this or try another deck.

Thanks for the info, very cool.

Looking at your gears wheels and motor, the speed calc i have for you shows:

83mm - 280kv - 6s - 16/48 = 19mph

that’s going to be pretty screaming on a 14-16" WB short board. You obviously can go slower, but i’d also worry about speed wobbles (depending on your skill and bushings dialed-in, etc.).

Did you get the programming card for this ESC?

I just ordered the motor, esc, programming card, charger, XT60 adapters, etc. It should all be in late next week and the build continues :).

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So I have most of my parts in, just waiting on the charger, power supply, connectors, etc. I have a couple of questions though. I bought the TorqueBoards 120A 6S ESC and the Electric Skateboard Motor 5055 280KV.

The ESC has 5.5mm connectors (I think) and the motor has 4mm connectors. Should I just cut and splice/solder or is there a converter cable?

The motor has a sensor wire, I don’t see anywhere to connect that to the ESC, did I order the wrong parts or is this common?

This is the wiring diagram I came up with, not sure how accurate it is so any help would be appreciated.

Thanks again.

The description of the ESC says “Sensorless or Sensored Brushless Motor” but i cannot see the input for the sensors… i think @torqueboards has to chime in here :wink:

Best approach is to use either 4mm connectors on the ESC and motor or 5,5mm. Dont mix it. I would recommend using 4mm because it is less likely to fall apart due vibrations. So just remove the 5,5mm connectors and solder new 4mm connectors.

I have the FVT version of the ESC, and the sensor connector is on the side where the motor wires come out of the ESC near the bottom.

yeah, hmmm. it was there the whole time. guess I’m going as Helen Keller for Halloween :slight_smile: Thanks

is there an easy way to extend the sensor cable? I’ve seen some extension but they are female on both sides.

I believe, I have some RC standard sensor extensions. You’ll have to make sure you connect it properly otherwise you can ruin your ESC.

I sent you a PM.

I figured out that you need a bunch of Male/Female 4mm & 5.5mm Bullet Connectors and XT60 Connectors to put all of this together. I dont know how I missed that :). Anyways, those are on order, should be here Monday.

On the Power Switch issue, would something like this work?

High Current LiPo Battery Switch With Optional T Plug/XT60/EC3 Plug

I have this version of the build complete. Overall, I’m pretty pleased.

There was a lot of the wobble, so I moved the trucks to the kick-tails (thanks @sl33py). On my next board I’ll use a 37-40 inch deck.I used a Plano box for the electronics, just used a Dremel to get rid of all the compartments in the base and the lid.

I should have gone with the 190kv motor, as Dexter suggested. The 280 is mondo fast and the acceleration is a killer.

I’m going to change remotes, the 2.4ghz Nano Remote has very little travel so acceleration and braking takes a lot of finesse. It works good, just not as ‘easy’ to use as I had hoped.

I definitely picked the wrong trucks, next time I’ll go with the Paris and weld the motor mount, or maybe the Caliber II and cut the motor mount to fit. Anything has to be better than what I bought :).

The best advice I can give to new builders is buy at least 10 pairs of 5.5mm & 4mm bullet connectors, you will need to solder adapter cables and maybe even change some existing connectors out to make everything match.

Anyways, props to everyone on this board and Dexter at , great advice from everyone involved.

.

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