this is also true. there is no question in my mind that having an idler is much better than not having one.
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Would there be any advantage to using an idler pulley on each side of the belt?
if you want to keep the centre distance short but want to have a massive gear down, like for an off road board. sure. but if you don’t need to why over complicate it.
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Ditto. I think it would be worse than just using a shorter belt length and just a single idler on the bottom.
It was honestly inspired by from scrolling through pictures on here so but I think it’s a topic that may be more intuitive for people to want to ask, I just happened to do it.
You have diagrams and shit…
A++ for effort and execution
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LOL yeaaahh. The diagrams are pretty bad I will admit that whole heartedly. I actually almost uploaded this without the diagrams but felt they did a little more good than bad.
Sorry for the ignorant question but, which is the slack side?
bottom side if inward mounted, top side if outward mounted. Basically, it’s the side the motor doesn’t tug on.
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Too funny that this discussion came up. I’m currently adding electric power to my favorite longboard, and since I don’t like the way existing mounts tension the belt by effectively spacing the motor (they are difficult to adjust well), I had already planned on using an idler pulley (I was also considering using fewer teeth on the motor pulley, so being able to force the engagement of additional teeth was another plus), AND I was going to put it on the slack/bottom side. That just seemed logically to be slightly better (for all the reasons discussed here). Also, being on the bottom would allow for easy tension adjustments because the idler pulley would be within easy reach once the board was flipped over.
Here’s a link to the idler pulley I ordered: http://www.ebay.com/itm/252553302006
well after some weeks of testing I can confirm that having the idler pulley on the “bottom” or looser part of the belt has made a huge difference. there is no belt slip, the board is faster and more efficient.
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If you use car, motorcycle and other machinery manufacturers as a model, idlers and tensioners, on timing belt drive systems, seem to be always on the slack side of the belt so to speak. Cam belts are a particularly common example. I’m sure there will be a few exceptions but this would seem to be the best way. I wouldn’t want to have to explain the reasoning but I reckon putting a tensioner on the tight side of the belt will result in an increase in frictional power losses. Andy.
This is a cool idea. Nice job. Where would I pick up an idler pulley from. I have no clue what size, type, ect… I have enertion motor mounts I’m working with.
Easy to make. Use a 6 or 8mm bolt, a spacer or 2 and a couple of bearings. Drill a proper hole in your mount and tap it to the appropriate size.
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Awesome. That sounds easy enough. Thanks!
Hey @JuniorPotato93 although this is a fairly old thread, I found it incredibly useful. Well done!!
I used an 8mm x15 m6 shoulder-bolt, and a locking flange nut to secure the bearing on the torqueboards v4 motor plate. No more belt-slip, even at full brake!! AAAAND no motor noise from an over-tightened belt!!! Thanks for the great post Edit: had to go up to a 295 belt for clearance
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Also looking into adding a pulley…(issues braking without slipping). Is a single bearing like that sufficient? It does not cover the entire width of the belt, thus wondering if that will warp the belt in any way or cause uneven wear. Thinking of a two bearing system with a 3d printed outer hull in between.
So, from my experience, not having the entire width of the belt supported tends to pull it in One Direction or the other. That setup worked for me for a little while, but since that I have switch to A 3 bearing rig. It’s difficult to find the clearance for three bearings on most standard mounts. I had to switch to the torqueboards reverse mount to have enough room.
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drunk now
If i had a wish, it would be that everyone’s bored was as good as mine! Good night
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