I got them so I can have a smoother ride. I still will be kick pushing to start and also keeping my same speed limits more or less. I’m still trying to get the motor/pulley connected, plus I’m replacing the busted deck with a slightly longer one. So I haven’t had the chance to test it and won’t until probably next week at the soonest.
The one issue I’ve seen with tightening the trucks (the last group ride was faster than my norm) is that it’s harder to make turns. I do have a kick tail but turns I was used to making I couldn’t lol
I’d love to know how those 150mm Roadrunner wheels work because I was looking at them too…
The right bushings will help with speed wobble and not force you to tighten the truck too much for turning Might also consider wedge and/or diff baseplate angle
I have the orangutang purple nipples. I haven’t taken them off my caliber trucks yet. I had to alter the trucks to make them fit so I got another set rather than accidentally ruin the calibers.
Pretty sure RipTide will have the exact bushings for your truck
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I’ll look into that, but while we’re on the subject, I’m still having issues finding the proper belt to fit. So far I’ve bought 3 different ones. None of which fit properly. I’d like the same width so it still fits the motor Pulley, but longer to compensate for the wheel pulley. The one that sort of fits length says 5m-450-20. It’s too wide to fit the Pulley and a little bit too big to have the right tension. I suppose I could make an idler, but I’d rather get the right size. The current belt doesn’t have any numbers on it.
Coming mostly from a freeride/downhil background, the wheel of choice for higher speeds or more stability/safety isn’t the diameter. Its the contact patch with the road, the correct durometer and bearing position. The faster you want to grip corners the more lip and contact patch you need.
Those wheels surely are nice for straight, low resistance since there is almost no contact with the street. But as soon as you need to transfer you body commands to the street the amount of contact you have with the pavement is where it’s at.
You also mentioned tightening your trucks worsened the turning for you. Instead of mushing the bushing together, get yourself an angled riser (5-10$) at a skateshop. reduce your back angle to 30-35 degrees. Run 2 duros harder bushings (barrels) board side and you should be fine. Steering is almost exclusively done over the front truck. Harder bushings boardside don’t necessarily mean less turn or lean, just more force needed. Tightening the bushing too much so It cannot work properly will reduce your turn significantly though.,
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Cut two belts, staple the ends together wrap it around. Mark it. Count the teeth. Multiply by 5mm. For belt length. Order the right length.
Now you have a broken belt to measure any build you build… 
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Thanks for that thorough explanation
Good idea. I’ll just cut one of the huge ones and use it. I was searching my house for tape just now. Didn’t find it lol
Otang Nipples are some of the worst bushings I I’ve ever ridden even in camparison to the generec ones that come on caliber clones… Super unstable.
Riptide bushings are the best, I’m stable at 40+mph and I can still make slower sharper turns. I got the almost precision kit from Miurskate. It was the best thing I did to my board.
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Generally you want softer bushings in the front than in the back. You also want to have the rear truck tighter than the front truck, this keeps rear steer from being a problem. The reason you want different durometers in the front and the back is to avoid oscillations.
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How would oscillations present themselves? Like what’s the physical feel/impact
I guess now I’m putting the correct size belt, possibly an off road Pulley if I can’t get my teeth right on mine, and now some bushings on my shopping list. Harder for the back, softer for the front?
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Yes ma’am
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i also use harder bushings road side for a better return to center feeling.
my set up wont be right for you because im super heavy but its dialed in perfect for me but maybe it will give you a better idea.
96a pivot cups 97a road ride bushing both front and rear 90a front board side bushing 95a rear board side bushing
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If my understanding is correct, and I wouldn’t swear in a court of law that it is, wobbles present as small turns at the pivot.
What I do know is that the easiest way to work.out of a wobble is to carve back and forth. The second option is to slow down as quickly as possible. I’ve also found that a small turn and acceleration will dissipate the oscillation.
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That gives me a better idea but wow, that’s 4 different bushings lol
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they all came in the almost precision kit i just mixed and matched till it felt right for me lol
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