Could you explain the rationale behind your thinking? Why would someone want to trade for a nano-x?
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I don’t know if someone would want to. I just want to trade because looking at the parts list the price comes out to about the price of a nano x
Maybe you can ask if someone is willing to make one for you?
That works to. As long as I get the remote. Whether it’s a kit the remote or someone building one for me.
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Can I know what the resistor and cap are meant to do?
Also can you share your new PCB file for reference?
sure its already shared but let me drop it again https://easyeda.com/orhanyoruk/kumandam in this project i ordered files named ‘‘rx’’ and ''FINALsmd" im not sure if the others are ok or even finished. it is for infamous reset problem. you did that aswel by adding a cap between reset and gnd pins. here https://forum.arduino.cc/index.php?topic=256771.30 post number 37 explains if you connect a cap(10uf) in series with a resistor(470Ohm) you avoid damaging reset switch or anything else. well that worked like a charm for me but on the pcb theres a place for mcp 130-450. it is supposed eliminate reset issue but havent tested myself so im not sure. going to order these if i ever make another remote https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Free-shipping-10pcs-lot-MCP130T-450I-TT-MCP130-SOT23-3-new-original/32823005999.html?spm=a2g0s.8937460.0.0.130d2e0ejSGG0x
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Oh one more thing… how are you juicing the lipo charger board? Thru the Arduino USB?
Oh no, just like firefly remote I use a seperate usb mini port tho I only connect 5v and gnd pins. There’s a place for it on the pcb too on the bottom left corner there’s a polarity marking on it too. So connecting it is just like any other dm or trigger switch. This charger/booster board really saves a lot of space and hassle. If it is proven to be reliable then I think it’s the best choice. edit: actually if there was a bit more space infront of the usb port of arduino board i could have connected 2 data wires from external port to nano port and 5v/gnd pins to chargerboard. this is how i wired my firefly and it gives you the luxury to program your arduino without opening the case. you can probably solder data wires behind the usb port of arduino nano but they really fine and i dont think i can solder wires to those microscopic pads. relocation of usb port opening would work too. i dunno its not much of a big deal you dont program it everyday so its fine like that.
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Anyone selling these?
I was going to order the MCP 130 myself, but I’m am not sure if the 130 version would work with the Arduino Nano. Doesn’t the reset pin need to be grounded to be activated?
I think the difference between 120 and 130 is that the 120 version has a low level reset output while the 130 has a high output level reset. (Edit: Not correct)
This guy use the 120 version on the Arduino due (3.3V)( post #32) https://forum.arduino.cc/index.php?topic=256771.30
PDF: http://ww1.microchip.com/downloads/en/DeviceDoc/11184d.pdf
yes i added mcp 130 to my pcb design according to that post and its completely optional. the guy on the post uses 300 version so it can watch over 3.3v line. i designed mine with 450 version in mind so it can watch over 5v line. mcp 130 has internal pull up resistor which you need to add to mcp 120 from external sources because it doesnt have it. also like you said it needs to be grounded and it is grounded. it has 3 legs 1-reset, 2-gnd, 3-source voltage to watch over. but then again i didnt test it yet so im not sure if it is going to work… for now cap and resistor combo is incredibly simple and efficient. completely eliminates the problem. i have lc filter and low esr cap on receiver but the problem was still there. i even have 220uf tantalum cap on transmitters 5v line but still problem persists so its not up to those components. nothing seems to work except for the cap/resistor or possibly mcp120-130 solution.
Thanks for the reply. Ordered some to try out. I’ve previously tried the capacitor/resistor fix. It fixed the start up problem, but I had to remove the capacitor to be able to upload software to the microcontroller. Are u experiencing any problems when uploading software to the uC when the cap and resistor are present?
to be honest i added the cap/resistor combo as a last minute update on the build so everything was already updated and installed but if thats gonna be a problem im definitely going to buy mcp130’s to try them out. in our local shop they only have mcp130-300 which is no good to me. i need something close to 5v so it can actually work with my pcb. seems like aliexpress is my only option again 
booster/charger module gets too warm almost hot and battery get warm with my 5V 2A phone wall charger. then i switched to my computers usb power and everything became cool to touch so another note on that.
When uploading it will stall, hit the reset button when it stalls and off you go! Worked for me the last 20 times I had to upload the firmware with the cap soldered over the reset pins
Can you replace a capacitor on the charging board to bring down the charging amps? Or is it something else that is getting hot
i didnt actually touch the board i was holding it from the outside so it must be even hotter in the inside but i stopped the charging let it cool off and powered it from computer everything is cool. dunno what caused it. looking at the product page https://www.aliexpress.com/item/6W-5V-UPS-mobile-power-Diy-Board-Charger-Step-up-DC-DC-Converter-Module-for-3/32790658678.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.19834c4d6RLP6F it says charging current 0-1A is it supposed to be current going in to the module or actual charging current feeding into battery its not really clear to me. thats allright tho i have plenty of 1A chargers laying around, shouldnt be a problem.
Ah okay so you juiced it with too many amps. On the charging side did anything get hot?
yea when i fed it with 2A everything got hot but after switching to computers usb power (which is i believe 900mA for usb3.0) everything is cool and charging is just finished now. im glad i didnt blow anything up as i dont have a spare board 
@ervinelin I was wondering if you got the same flysky antenna. In the product pictures it looks like it has some sort of sleeve on it but mine doesnt. Also got this one on the left see how they both perform
