Depending on the switch your using, it may have a delay. I used a no name brand switch and it worked fine for turning on the light but, I had to hit the switch twice to turn it off.
I came up with pololu RC switch with digital output and plan to connect it to gate of mosfet from antispark switch I already use for switching front light.
Here are specs of what I ordered.
can you please post a link to the switch you are using
This one:
I was using the turnigy one from Hobbyking.
Thanks for the link Iāll get one of this and give it a try. 
Iāll pm you
Today lightbar came and I made mounting brackets out of 3mm thick stainless steel. Here is how it looks:
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thats really mad max material, awesome!! 
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Thanks @whitepony!
I hate economic shippingā¦ should have ordered nano remote from Kaly instead of aliexpress, the package is from 4 days in warsaw, thatās rougly only 300 km away from me and still tracking shows no update, this waiting is KILLING ME 
Looks sick with the light bar. Like some kind of planetary rover. Lovinā it.
Hey, very nice build! How do you like those escs? I have the same one, but it seems like the brakes arenāt proportional on the stock firmware.
Hi Squad,
Beautiful build here. Iāve been following along on Endless Sphere for some time now. Where did you find your power switches for you ultrabox if you donāt mind me asking? Iām looking to do something similar, and I dig the clean look you have going there.
Thanks for your time, Benjammin
Hi, thanks! I bought those switches on elfa.se, they are in eu and sell to every eu country. Those are latching vandal-proof switches, this is the ākey wordā while searching those. Keep in mind, that those switches are connected to anti-spark switches and only ālogicā really low current flows through them, main current flows through roboust mosfet in SOT-227 case.
@paragon I didnāt have time lately, forgive my delay in reply. Those ESCs have some āpunchā when compared to VESC, breaking is not as precise as in VESC+nunchuck, but that may be due to short nano remote thumbstick travel. I had problem with setting ESC and motor in sensored configuration, as I noticed that starting from stand still wasnāt smooth as butter and it turned out one of my hall sensors was dead and gave constantly 5 V instead of 0 and 5, as magnetic poles change, this canfused ESC. I changed this faulty hall sensor and now both motors are in sensored mode, today I will see how it performs compared to sensorless operation.
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Today I tested my set up in sensored mode, and this thing works like a dream! Starting from stand still in high grass or on a steep hill? -No problemo, no cogging, no hesitation, just pure power transferred directly to your wheels! I highly recommend those Maytech 12S 120A ESCs, and keep in mind that they reveal their true potential with sensored motors. In my personal opinion, current version of VESC, 4.XX is suitable rather for e-longboards than eMTBs, what You want in an eMTB is powerrr, and Your motor needs to get lots of current to deliver it, VESC simply canāt output such current as this ESCs do.
Everything about this eMTB is nearly perfect in my opinion, even temperature activated fans start working when ESCs get hot, and they provide necessary to cool them air circulation around radiator ribs, and they turn off when their work is done. I find this board to be eye pleasing, aesthetic, this was my main goal from the beginning. Lightbar with flood beam allows you to ride at night, and looks sick at the same time.
Itās more a kind of a touring eMTB than Jenso racing-performance ones, Iām fine with it. Easy to change sprockets allow me to change gearing and achieve different top speed/torque ratios. Iām mostly using middle ones from my set, with 14/60 gearing, spare ones are 12/60 and 16/60, keyway on a shaft with circlips hold sprockets tight even if the gub screw is not tightened.
After months of struggling with this project I can finally say: āItās finished!ā
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Hi, thanks for the info! Iām in the US, but Iāll see if I can at least come up with something comparable. Congrats on finishing the build. Really nice setup!
Could you explain what solution you used for triggering the fans at specific temperature? Did not find exact method from reading your text or perhaps I missed it.
Would be great to modify the cheap fvt escās so that the fan is not running all the time
I used small pcb designed for that purpose, here is some more info (unfortunately for You in polish, but there is also circuit scheme with all components listed)
Thanks for shematics. Looks like a relatively simple circuit.
Did you use 12v or 5v fans?
Does that change resistor values? Im not that good in circuit electronics, so I probably have lots of extra questions about it.
One extra question would be - how exactly did you find the āāsweet spotāā for turning on the fan? Did you just tried to feel the temperature by hand and then tried to set the fan to start at this temp or you used some other equipment?
Second question would be - do you have to use a specific type of temp sensor or it does not matter?
Iāve seen temp probes on laptop batteries and also regular outdoor electronic temp devices, although have not tested their resistance and donāt know are they all the same for use in such circuit.
On a side note:
A while ago I found such a device, not sure how reliable it is, although seems to work in some applications:
Looks like it is meant for use with 12v, too.
Sorry about all the questions but perhaps someone can benefit from this āāside featureāā the same as I doā¦ if there rises a situation for temp controlled fan control
My ESCs BEC was supposed to give adjustable voltage in range of 5-12V but max voltage I can choose in settings is 8,4V, so this is my voltage, fans are rated for 12V, I didnāt change anything in the circuit, itās exactly as in this scheme.
I found desired potentiometer value by mounting thermistor on an aluminium sheet piece with use of thermal conductive paste, and then heated this sheet with heat gun to about 50 degrees celcius (measured by laser thermometer), then set potentiometer so it would start working at this temp.
This circuit is designed to work with 10Kohms NTC thermistors, so any of those would work just fine. My thermistor is glued by thermal conductive glue between ESCs radiator ribs.
Those bimetal switches might work fine in this application, but one thing that would bother me is thermal conductivity of its case, it might require to try few of different temp variants of those to find the right one.
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Hey Squad,
i got the Maytechs for testing now here.
How do you set the Throttle Range Calibration? In the Instructions they talk about a āSet Buttonā you have to use ā¦ But there is no āSetā Button 
It seems to work fine without doing the calibration but i would like to understand how to perform it correctā¦
Thanks in advance. Jenso