Yes that is what I will do. I was asking earlier what the point of using a wiiceiver was and he was just answering saying that I guess some people use it because no soldering is required.
Btw should I get risers or is that not neccessary ?
I have them but it looks like a giant. They give more clearance though so that’s a bonus.
Well I’m going to use a top mount so I should have enough clearance already right?
Sorry, I don’t really know what a top mount is. I am not much of a skater I like the electronics side more.
I’m not either. Top mount just means you mount the trucks under the board instead of part of it going through the board.
Top-mount will certainly help with clearance. Other than the board shape (drop, etc) and trucks, having enough clearance depends on the size of the wheels, motor mount position, thickness of batteries, and enclosure. Given that the SPACE cell (and the enclosure you referenced) is quite thin, you should be fine, but best to calculate everything and make sure. If you haven’t already, see onloop’s post here about board shape and space required: What deck is best for building your own electric skateboard? - ESK8 Aesthetics - Electric Skateboard Builders Forum | Learn How to Build your own E-board . He states 170mm needed for mounting motor and wiring. Add that to the length of the enclosure you want to mount and make sure there’s enough clearance from front trucks.
That’s great! It will be nice to begin with a common, vetted configuration.
Are there places to get enclosures or should I just use a random piece of tupperwear or box or something. Also, how do people attach enclosures, batteries, etc to the board, do they bolt them in, glue them, I’ve something about velcro before also?
@disastorm sounds like you’ve got it mostly worked out in your head.
There will always be those moments during a build when you get stuck. So you simply need to create a build thread on here and post photos illustrating your questions.
Eventually I’ll do a new video showing the latest generation of enertion parts being used to build a complete deck…
Maybe in 2-3 weeks I’ll get a chance to do that.
Read this article about choosing a deck:
Thanks. Will the VESCs from later this month come pre soldered and with a XT-60 connector or would I have to do that?
that’s the plan!
however don’t 100% count on not soldering, there will always be some soldering of something…
Ok thanks for the info. Yea I’ll have to at least solder the nyko wireless receiver anyway. When you said you will pre-load the RSPEC parameters, does that mean we won’t need to do any kind of configuration to the VESC ourselves provided we use those motors?
If you buy the R-SPEC motors, they come with 5.5mm male connectors soldered to the phase wires already, they also have the female connectors included which WILL need to be soldered onto the VESC phase wires…
Thanks Ok I’ve think I’ve decided on almost everything. I guess the last thing is what is the advantage of dual motors over single motors? Is it mainly just for stuff like climbing hills?
please use search more 
http://m.ebay.com/itm/Low-Profile-Electric-Longboard-Enclosure-/171936689100?nav=SELLING_ACTIVE
There are other shapes and sizes available too. You can search the enclosure threads or search electric longboard on eBay and you’ll find them there. Another option would be to make your own vac forming set up. Takes a little practice, time and small investment, but I’ve found it enjoyable!
Nice thanks. I’ll try to use search more in the future. Also thanks for the link psychotiller.
I ordered this deck https://www.muirskate.com/longboard/decks/70202/never-summer-2015-commander-longboard-skateboard-deck-w-grip
Since its a W Concave, the only issue I might have is I’d have to bolt the enclosure to the bottom instead of using something like tape.
I’m going to go with the Nyko Kama since I like the way it looks and it doesn’t really seem to difficult to connect, I just need to solder the receiver wires to the VESC directly.