A front brake is maybe twice as effective as a rear brake. So if I only had one, id rater a front brake. Front wheel drive over rear wheel drive sucks but…
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make sure you have somewhere for the heat to go. Peltiers get really, really warm on the hot side. I’ve got some coming in at some point, i ordered them a couple months ago. We were going to tie the cold side to the focbox and the hot side to a heatsink that’s exposed to outside air and see if we couldn’t crank up the output a little.
SK3s have a built in fan. Maytech, R-Spec and my motors blow quite a lot of air due to the centrifugal fan behavior of the mag wheel looking end caps. They get warm and even hot on occasion but it seems to have little effect on anything.
We put a scoop on them once but ended up getting crap clogged in it.
I’m pretty sure its totally not worth it though to do peltiers, but it will be fun to try and come up with something.
I’m interested in heatpipes actually as a more realistic ESC cooling solution. Scoops and fans though… there’s defeinitely something there for the motors. Yuneeq had that fan on thier e-go motor.
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Yeah - I’ve wanted the peltiers for a home-made cooler anyhow, so while I don;t expect to find a very practical use for them on the board, I was ordering anyway. I also thought that for $15 I might give this a shot as a way to push air into the pipes…
It’s only 42mm.
Unless I can get some serious airflow pushing through there and can make a noticeable difference in the temp of my motor after a 5-mile run I may disassemble the whole works. This is just what I did as an afternoon project tinkering with what I had lying around. I’m not even sure that the temp the motor is getting to is dangerous for it, I just know it is hotter than it used to get when I was using my slightly shallower temporary enclosure. The normal operating temp for my motor is 120-130 degrees. Mine doesn’t get too hot for me to touch it, but if I left my finger there for more than about 6 seconds it would start to hurt. I guess there is also a little plastic fan inside this motor? I suppose I should see if that stopped working somehow (or is turning in the wrong direction)…I don’t know exactly where it is, but I’ll look for it tonight before I ride.
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I’ve been toying with an idea of water cooling for a while now. For example, a sealed hub motor with water cooling… But it’s risky, so… Might be a while before I try that one, haha.
Oh man had a flash back to how we used to keep the grow room cool haha
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just keep a squirt gun handy and crouch down and spray the motors now and then while you ride.
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haha, one solution. I might need a really big squirt gun, cause I get motors HOT.
single drives? heavy rider? or both?
I ride 4wd, but hills, I weight around 205 these days + a 20 pound backpack (textbooks, laptop, ect.), I ride aggressively… Did I mention hills? lol. I also like to stay above 25 mph as much as possible, which with GG park, that could be a few miles at a time. And we saw recently how wind resistance really is a huge factor at high speeds.
It’s also cause these motors are just too damn small, as much as I like the fact that I have a motor fully enclosed in an 80mm wheel that to most people who ask, have no idea my board is electric. They mostly ask why my boards so thick, lol.
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what size are your motors? 50’s or 63’s? What voltage are you running?
Just curious because no matter how fast i go, i can still hold my hand on my motors, they’re never too hot to keep my hand on. Even in 101 degree weather. To be clear i do not try to hold them while travelling at 25+ mph. I usually wait until i stop to grab them.
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50mm. They are hummies small motors. New one’s will have a stator twice as long, and heat shouldn’t be as much of an issue. But they won’t have as simple of a look IMO.
ahhhhhhh now it makes sense. I was wondering why your motors were working so hard.
hubs man. That mechanical disadvantage generates a fuckload of heat. But they do look clean on a board.
I think the 24 tooth stator might be the real solution. Need to do more testing, but it might be why enertions and jacobs hubs ran much cooler, at least at slower speeds.
I know your still on belt and pulleys, but I think one day soon, they’ll be real solutions to the problems hubs have today, some of which I’m sure the raptor 2 hubs have already fixed.
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true. But untill i can change ratios on a hub, i’m not doing it.
When i come up with my hubs, swapping KV will be a feature. Hopefully i can have modular hubs that let me swap stators. That’s the real dream right there.
I deal with people who write me and say “i’m 220 pounds and i want to climb hills in virginia.” that guy doesn’t need hubs unless i can drop them down to maybe 60kv and have a stator as long as my dick or steal somebody’s raptor two hubs. Belts? no problem. 14/36 or 15/37 will get him up a damn hill all day long on 6355s and all i have to do is swap a pulley.
Its hard sitting here waiting for what i need. Building customs is a challenge because of shit like this.
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It’s true. Theres less convenience on hubs. I think 4wd with hubs is really a great option. Expensive, but VESC prices are dropping ,and will continue to drop. And considering I can get a motor little motor for less than $100, I could in theory build an a small 4wd hub board for around $1000 USD, without labor and the other BS involved like taxes.
With 80 kv and 4wd, I climb 20% grade hills at 20 mph. Tons of torque, and I can still get up to almost 30 mph.
listen to me talk smack about hubs when i just sent a home wrecking sized wire transfer to Slovenia for an NGV system for a customer’s build.
Unless you’re skidding, a front brake is not twice as effective as rear brakes. Under very hard braking you may skid though, making a front brake a tad more effective.
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for a simple test you can try at home hope on a motorcycle or push bike and measure your stopping distance using either brake…
I see you quoted the first reference from google on the topic, funny how the second reference states that: " The front brake assumes around 75-90% of the braking power"
It is simple physics you just can not get your weight behind the rear wheel to optimize traction.
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I didn’t quote anything. This is based off real world experience