As much I love my Kodiaks, as much I want to have a proper motor mount. I tried to file a mount based on some basic mount. But it didn’t work out well.
So I think i will go for some caliber II trucks for now. Maybe we will have the chance to borrow a Kodiak truck somewhen to create proper mount for it. I would love to see that!
Anyhow… This is a drawing of the hanger profile
Yes, I prefer to work off an actual physical truck, that way I can test fit it on the truck so you don’t need to modify the clamp on your end. If interested in purchasing my mount for the caliber, here is my info: The motor mount is $50 per set + $14 shipping to EU (shipping cost for 2 sets is $24). Set includes 1 clamp, 1 universal motor arm, dual idlers (4 bearings) and all stainless hardware. My paypal account is [email protected]. To avoid additional $4 transaction fee, please use “friends and family” and include a shipping address. Thanks, Marc
Is there nobody in the US who can borrow you a truck?
https://www.amazon.com/Bear-Kodiak-Forged-Longboard-Truck/dp/B0167L1Q0S/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1515185942&sr=8-2&keywords=bear+kodiak
That was super helpful. I think I will stick to a single mount for now. I will send pay pal / order this Friday.
What width belt do the idlers support?
up to 15mm wide.
No problem, I will tag on additional fee charge by paypal to my current prices. Thanks, Marc
To avoid additional $4 transaction fee, please use “friends and family”
That reads to me as if you don’t want to pay the extra $4, send friends and family…otherwise pay it yourself. that’s what I did.
Correct the point being it’s not an option anymore so should be automatically figured into the total i.e. $4 always
Received mine and fully respect the design. Nice work! I’m awaiting a belt of the new right length and can’t wait to try out. Although it’s 10F today, so…
Anyway, my idlers seem a little sticky when tightened enough that they don’t move in the track. In what order and on what side of the mount do you use the washers provided? I have now: head / washer / bearing / bearing / washer / mount / nut. Where does the lock washer go?
Thanks!
Hey, The order of idlers installation: Bolt > washer > nylon spacer > bearings > washer > lock washer > mount > lock nut
Thanks for that. Obv I was missing the locknut under the bearings. That should space it out a bit.
@marcmt88 Just write it as "$54 with $4 discount for Friends & Family payment)
LoLz 
On a side note, many of us have done business with @marcmt88 and he is totally legit.
Hey are you still making these motor mounts with the dual idler pulleys? I would like to buy one
Hey, back again. Actually ready to buy this time. Do you have two sets for paris trucks?
I’ve got to say that marcmt88 has some great customer service! I ordered a mount from him but there was a small mixup, within a few days I had received a replacement free of charge. 
Aside from that, the mount that I ordered seems to be held back by its design. Firstly, the motor clamp has to be ridiculously tight in order for it to make good contact with the trucks. Even after that (and some locktite red) the screw was still loosening after <3-mile rides. I ended up snapping that screw trying to remove it. I then had to drill that out and re-tap it to an M6 thread. Even an M6 bolt with a lock washer and locktite red loosened after short rides. I ended up rounding off the nut torquing it down as hard as I could as a final resort. That worked, but now I’m super fucked if I want to take it off.
This doesn’t seem to have any sort of mitigation for vibrations. All the screws all small and with minimal amounts of encouragement come loose. I’ve had every single section of the mount come loose at some point in time. This all seems like it was overlooked during the design phase.
For example: Instead of using an M5 screw for the mount, use a much beefier M6 or larger bolt and a castle nut/cotter pin to prevent the bolt from coming loose during bumpy rides. Or add room for a Nord-Lock washer.
The clamp is not very long. A longer clamp would help tremendously.
Use longer screws for the where the bracket meets the clamp so that lock nuts can be added also, use larger screws. Instead of the slot/groove combination, use a set of pre-drilled holes. This will limit the amount of adjustability but will ensure that the mount will not be as encouraged to pivot.
The idler setup is very bad if left uncovered. There needs to be some sort of cover included.
For the designs that use the parallel tracks for belt tensioning, it just sucks. This is the issue that I am currently stuck on. My chain came dangerously loose after some short rides and I am unable to fit it because I locktit’d in all the screws as hard as I could so that they wouldn’t loosen.
Something like this might be a good start:
It’s just not worth the effort at this point. If I can ever take the thing off it will have to go into the trash.
where can i buy it?
Could you make the motor side of the mount longer?
thanks again