don’t cheap out on the soldering iron, especially if you’ve spent so much on everything else and plan to solder the cells together. Invest in a nice 85w soldering station like a Weller or Hakko.
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im using this deck http://www.skateshred.com/index.php/wholesale-blank-longboard-decks/39-75-x-10-drop-through-double-kick.html cheap and i can buy a custom griptape:P
start with half of that battery, then ride till its empty and reconsider! 
12S9P could be 1360Wh, which, with conservative throttle @ single motor is 136km range!
i dont know i’ll probably do a 12s4p for each motor, i rather have dual drive than single drive…
I like higher millage because i wont stress the batteries so much and lower the voltage that much. My brother just bought the yuneec ego 2 and i broke it by leaving it dead for two days. so thats why im doing 2 builds 
i think 5-6p would be enough for both motors 9p is a bit overkill
I am also doing a 12S8P because of the laptop batteries. This battery is even flexible and also each battery is swoppable at any time. Fingers crossed that it works. If not then at least I did learn something. And if it doesn’t work i can buy new 3500mAh batteries and build a 28Ah (1243 Wh) Monster. Would be maybe the first 100 km+ range build.
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youre gonna solder the cells? if so you’re going to get frustrated really fast
No soldering anymore. After more than 400 spots. The Pack is connected and the only wires which are missing are the main - and + wire. And the others need to be shortened to the perfect length. So still more work to do.
So it is also is very flexible.
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Might need a drop of hot glue or silicone to keep the batteries retained but I think the sled’s are a great idea.
sleds are a good option if you dont want have a spot welder i suppose but arent the most elegant way to go.
Plus what about those little tabs, surely they cant handle too many amps
Each Pack is connected by 2 x 12AWG wire. The main wire will be a single 12 AWG wire so it should be more than enough. And the main goal was not to avoid the soldering, because spot welding would be much faster than this build, My intention was to have a pack where i can replace each battery in a couple of seconds at any time. Because i want to use recycled laptop batteries.And they are not in the best condition so they will not last 500 cycles.
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I looked at the battery and thought about the same exact thing.
I have also soldered a nickel strip to a battery tab, assembled the pack and went for a test cruise and that was the last time I used solder for battery packs. After this I built my own DIY car battery dual pulse spot welder and then bought nickel strip from ebay. Satisfied with the results, although I’m going for a thicker strip in the future. Strip I currently use was sold as .10 mm.
And why was it the last time. What happend? 
this is how the packs are connected. As you can see my soldering skills are quite poor. I am learning.
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Wow pretty cool.
I think it’s worth having a velcro strap on each 8P pack to retain them in the sled
I think i will use zip ties. Cost are irgnorable, reliable and cut them to replace a battery and add a new one. The biggest problem i have to find out is if the laptop batteries are working. Because their C rating is very low. Hope that i can make a testrun at the weekend if i find the time to solder the last parts. Sadly my Vedder anti spark switch is not here yet. So i maybe go with a xt90 anti spark.
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I couldn’t wait for my vedder switch so i went for the anti spark XT90.
And it is working 
Went for a testride with my worst 48 laptop cells (12S4P) and reduced the battery amps so that i only use half the power i would use later on with the 12S8P (96 cells) and it worked really well.
After around 4 km the cells got a bit warm but far away from hot. I guess around 30 or 35 degrees. And i wasn’t carefull with the thottle. And as i sayed this was only half the cells i use later on. So i am very confident that this setup will be reliable.
With the cells i am using it should be good for 80km.
I made 2 testruns and the first one with only one motor, And what was strange to me is that with one i could feel a lot of torgue steering. On my other board which is single drive i can’t feel that. But it doesn’t really matter because this here is a dual.
Maybe the difference are the trucks, The single drive has paris tucks and this one caliber 2. Brushings feel pretty much the same.
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What’s the size of your board?
106 cm with a wheelbase of 83,5 cm
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