Cuprani's Dutch Custom Build | 3150W 12S | Added 360° video

Hi there, I’m Nils from the Netherlands (near Rotterdam) and I’m 32 years. This is my first build and I try to do it right the first time. Here is an overview of my gear

€ 45,99 | Custom board from a Dutch builder € 210,00 | Torque Board Single Motor Mechanical Kit - Caliber II rkp 50 trucks - 16 tooth motor pulley - 36 tooth wheel pulley - 90 mm flywheels (clones) € 120,00 | Torque Board Motor 6374 190KV 3150W (sensored) € 99,00 | Vesc BLDC 4.12 (firmware 2.18) € 60,00 | HV Powerswitch € 16,97 | Spare drivebelt and can cable for motor sensor € 20,00 | Shipping € 21,20 | Customs and import tax

€ 36,98 | 2,4ghz remote controller € 42,76 | 50,4 V 12S charger (inc shipping) € 3,36 | GX16 connector / charge port for my enclosure € 27,64 | 12S Battery Management System (only for charging, not for discharging) € 12,76 | Enclosure (plant tray :-))

€ 85,80 | 3 x Zippy Flightmax 5000mAh 4S1P 20C € 9,75 | XT90 Anti Spark Connectors € 6,47 | ECS Heatsink Pack € 3,08 | 1M 10AWG wire € 4,84 | 10 HXT 4mm Gold Connectors € 3,04 | 8x JST-XH 4S connectors € 30,23 | Turnigy Accucel-6 80W 10A Lipo & LiHV Balancer/Charger/Discharger € 4,84 | 10 HXT 4mm Gold Connectors

€ 24,00 | Metr.AT Bluetooth Transmitter

€ 19,95 | Zeolous Bearings € 15,95 | Riptide Pivot Cups € 18,50 | Riptide WFB Chubby bushing (board side), Red 93a € 5,95 | Riptide WFB Barrel bushing (road side rear), Red 93a € 5,95 | Riptide WFB Barrel bushing (road side front), Yellow 88a € 12,00 | Replaced all bolts from Torque Board for Stainless Steel ones with torx heads instead of hexagon € 13,90 | Strap band for enclosure € 15,00 | Strap bridges € 100,00 | Small gear, bolts, rubber band, solder etc.

€ 150,00 | Helmet, wrist guards, knee guards, full body protection vest etc

€ 1245,91 | Total cost

I’m currently running with borrowed Lipo’s an HV Switch because my BMS and HV switch are still on transportation. I have zero experience with any kind of boarding at all. The first two or three runs were very scary, but it didn’t take long to manage a good feeling on the board. It’s getting more comfortable every time. Now I’ve run about 30km’s in total in two weeks and I’m really enjoying every run. It gives me a big smile every time!

The board was turning to soft, so I immediately bought some new bushings. Also the deck has a little bit too much flex. I think it is somewhere in between stiff and medium but as I want to ride high speeds maybe in the future I will buy myself another deck.

Here are some pictures of the build.

Because I have zero experience in boarding I first ran without the engine. I did this only ones.

I wanted to be able to reach the VESC quick and easy without having to dismount 20 screws first, that’s why I choose for this setup.

I used rubber foam tape to make it water resistance, and it works. I have driven in the rain through the water and inside the enclosure it keeps dry.

More pics will follow when I have built in my own BMS and Lipo’s.

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What is the purpose of 2 chargers?

Forgive me if this is bad question, I’m still very new and reading as much as I can to try learning.

It’s a good question, because you don’t need 2 chargers.

But I just don’t trust those Chinese BMS. It brings the lipo’s to 50,4V. 4,2V for each cell.

If you really want to extend the life of your lipo’s you should not charge above 4,15V. I’ve read some article that a lipo had about 2000 charge cycles when charged to 4,15V. 500 when charged to 4,2V. And only 100 when charged to 4,25 volt.

Because the BMS balances to 4,2V within a 0,05V range it could maybe decrease the life of my lipo’s.

I will use the 50,4V charger with BMS 9 out of 10 times with the battery’s in the enclosure (in series) with an easy charge port on the outside of my enclosure.

Ones every 10 times I will charge it with my computerised lipo charger to check the condition of the lipo’s and balance it correctly. It cannot charge to 50,4V so I have to charge them separately (or in parallel). Also I will use this charger to discharge the lipo’s when I store them for a longer period of time.

The extra charger is not necessary though, but as I also have a Traxxas Stampede RC offroad car with a NiMH battery, which I wanted to upgrade to Lipo’s, the charger will be used for my RC car too.

Thank you. I still have the same hobby charger from years ago when I had a Traxxas Rustler

That strap system looks really neat!

Your board will be so nice on those Dutch cycle paths :heart_eyes:

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@Cuprani nice build for the first time! Btw I live in Rotterdam centrum :smiley:

nice strap design - where did you get those strap bridges and the plant tray? looks like a really nice and simple solution plus it actually looks good.

I love the strap design mate well done :+1::+1:

Thanks all!

@Maxid, I’ve updated my start post, so you can find the links there.

I love your enclosure idea. I will look into finding a plant tray also. Right now I am using a IKEA kitchen cabinet tray.

Here some pics of the internal layout.

Al battery related components are fixed on the enclosure.

I wired my BMS, but still waiting for the 50,4V charger and connector to mount.

I want to keep the board as stealthy as possible.

I drove about 30 kilometers last weekend. I’m really happy with the Riptide Chubby WFB bushings. Hit about 50 km/h (31 mph) and it kept really steady. It feels really good when carving, but tight turns are a little harder.

9 Likes

Nice first build! Looks clean and stealthy!

I now drive in foc mode at about 80% of it’s capabilities. I can run at 100% but then the vesc gets over 70°C (158°F). So to save my vesc I changed motor power from 80A to 65A.

Made a test video with my 360° cam to check the topspeed at 80% of it’s power. Also connected my phone with the board to log during the video. It’s really crappy sound and quality.

Video starts at 3min50sec for topspeed run.

Also available in 360° (open in youtube app or chrome for 3D)

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Just in case someone from Germany wants to mimic this: The German word for this type of strap bridge is “Lakeikrampe” - I had to search forever to find this. Can be bought cheaply on ebay: http://www.ebay.de/itm/10-Lakeikrampen-Kunststoff-25mm-schwarz-/262740282869?hash=item3d2c8a8df5:g:LlMAAOSwImRYPWXf

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Hi Cuprani,

the plant tray link doesn’t seem to be working. very nice, clean and stealthy build!

How well is it performing in the rain? Mine shutted down.

@AreaKruzer, Thanks! I see the item is removed. You can find it by searching on: “Plant Sill Tray Black 55cm Saucer Trough Garden” from seller “forestfox_trading” [Click]

@Mark, I don’t drive in the rain, but I do drive on wet roads after the rain. There is never water in the enclosure, even when driving through puddles.

Thanks for the link! You’ve been a great help!

thats quite nice. Could you share how your working with the bms? I wanna do the same

@Mark I have to admit I got back on my BMS setup.

I discharged my lipo’s to much. I had my vesc set at 38,4V (3,2V per cell). My first cell was discharged to 3,0V while the others were mostly around 3,3V. 3.0V is seriously bad for the remnant life of the lipo.

Now I’ve got my cut off set at 42V, but because of the difference in voltage I decided to play on safe and use the BMS for discharging as well.

If you do not want to use the BMS for discharging you simply only connect the “B” (balance) from the BMS to the minus of the battery, and mount the minus of the charge port to “P” on the BMS. The plus on the charge port you connect directly to the plus of the battery pack. Also you have to connect all balance wires.

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