CHINESE BUILD: 10S3P | Maytech VESC | Maytech 6374 190kV mono drive | BOOSTED BOARD Deck | 97mm Wheels | Winning remote

Do you mean further up the truck? Why’s that? These trucks and motor mounts were made for each other so I don’t see the problem, any insights would be much appreciated!

No. I mean you need to push the motor further in the truck so the drive and motor pulley align perfectly

Ahh, I get you now. This was only a quick mock up before putting in the Loctite, they’re alligned better now

UPDATE: So I’ve skipped ahead here to the point where everything is done here (other than underside enclosures). I’m working on a big video for my YouTube channel of the build, so I didn’t bother going through the process here as it’s pretty generic and you’ve seen it 100s of times already.

I took it for a test spin last night, about 5-6km. Everything worked excellently. 0 complaints about the parts so far, great connection between the winning remote (with the coasting fail safe enabled). Motor runs nice and cool, Maytech VESC is excellent so far, standard programming procedure, I just need to figure out how to get the sensord on the motors to work (more on that later). I only managed to get it up to 35km/h before chickening out (still trying to grasp the concept of people doing 50km/h+!!!). By the end of the test trip all was well except the screws on my motor mount which had come loose. The Loctite didn’t do it’s job to well… Do you guys use medium or high strength loctite? I used medium and it simply doesn’t do the trick. Little scared about using high strength but it looks like I’ll have to go with it…

Right now I’m making 2 very simple moulds for vacuum forming enclosures. I can’t get my hands on ABS too easily, so I’m going to give 3mm perspex a go. Do you know of anyone on the forums who has used perspex before? They’ll end up very very rigid…

Will post some photos tomorrow once the enclosures are done! I started work on Saturday, and I should have the whole project done tomorrow evening after school. I tend to work fast when I’m excited!

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Perspex is not as rubbery when hot as some of the other plastics. I would give it a go but the corners are going to be tricky.

Can i ask how much you paid for the Maytech motor?

I gave vacuum forming a shot last night, didn’t go so well… but I’m retrying again this morning. I’m determined.

I think it was about 110 USD by the time it got here. It’s the sensord version

Ok thanks, i heard they are very good motors.

Right so update on the perspex enclosures: total disaster. I can see why nobody else does it. The plastic doesn’t stretch enough. Tried heating it further with a heat gun to stretch it but it tore. Would not recommend!!

I then tried using low density polyethylene . Not ideal but it’s much better than the perspex (not as good as ABS but as I mentioned previously it’s very difficult to get in Ireland…). Using the vacuum former, and then a heat gun, I managed to get it to a reasonable shape. Not perfect but it will do as a temporary solution.

Will be spray painting the enclosures black. Eventually I will replace the enclosures with properly formed abs enclosures. More updates tonight when I start fitting everything together!

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It sure seems excellent so far, very very little heat generated while riding. My only concern about the motor is the actual frame: there are reports of these frames snapping (where the motor is screwed to the motor mount). So in hindsight I would have had seconds thoughts about it for that reason only. But other than that it seems really good!

You heard this about Maytech motors??,… Enertion motors are made by Maytech i heard ?

Not Maytech motors specifically, but the metal part on the motor that you screw on to. A good few people on the forums have experienced them breaking. The design of the part is generic, there are a lot of brands that use the same design for that part, and others have broken (I can’t imagine that Maytech use a different metal for that part of the motor…? I’d say they were all made in the same place). So since it seems to be quite a weak design that multiple brands still use, (and given that Maytechs part is the same as the others), I would think twice about buying. But if Enertion really gets their motors made by Maytech, then I wouldn’t feel as bad about it, but I still feel a little uneasy…

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e Everything fitted. Little concerned about the temporary enclosures, I might need to reinforce the screws with a bracket as the plastic is a little soft. Will be taking it out for a ride in the morning, but if it’s as good as the first test run, then I’m going to be very happy. Will be designing the new enclosures over Christmas. Update and opinions tomorrow after riding!

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Well at least there was something to learn :smirk: If you can find polycorbonate [PC] it will make a really strong enclosure and should vacuum form well.

Nice looking workshop, is that a university or high school?

Looks so nice!

That XT90 plug, if you pull that out it disconnects the battery?

I’m no electrical engineer but I have heard many say long battery wires can cause inductance which can hurt the esc. Someone with more knowledge can chime in and tell us if this an acceptable length or not? Though having the + - wires next to each other is meant to cancel it out to some degree so you might be ok. Its better to lengthen the motor wires and shorten the battery wires to reduce the affect.

https://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/document.do?docId=1018

https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?952523-too-long-battery-wires-will-kill-ESC-over-time-precautions-solutions-workarounds

how do you mount the xt90 to be firm and tigh? coz the key loop will plug in and out, will loose the connector. i got a same deck with you~~~

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Thanks for the suggestion! I’ll see if I can get my hands on some PC, I believe it’s easier to find over here. Yup that’s our workshop in high school, nothing amazing but such a huge relief to have a place like it here in Ireland (which is such a heavily service based country, hence basically no DIY attitude compared to the US/rest of Europe).

Yep the XT90 acts as a switch, pulling it out breaks the circuit. Just need to replace the male end with a XT90-S, the spark makes me flinch every time…

Interesting thought about induction… If anyone else could chime in that’d be much appreciated! I’ll see what else I can find out in the meantime

Really sweet looking board! Would love to see some updated photos on your build log. The XT90 situation is a little tricky, because you need so much force to keep it in place. Basically I just used a ridiculous amount of hot glue to keep it in place (I put in other objects too to help fill in the space). But now nothing at all can come free, so it should be g.

PS. I can assure you this battery pack is not my finest work… But as mentioned before it’s all temporary… :wink:

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o… i saw the wooden block as the base of the xt90. haha… although is ugly, but is works well…

U using 10S3P? but look small …

Battery indicator accurate?

I had update my build log~~~