they take how long to repair?
I think they might just send me a replacement. I’m struggling to get the bloody thing off my motor mount, problems with high strength loctite! Going to borrow a heat gun tomorrow to try and help free it up so I can unscrew it. Once I send it out to them they’ll probably brief me on the procedure. I think they’re actually going to send me a replacement instead of repairing it. Even better!
Incase you want to know if it was replaced I would put a light scratch somewhere or a marking if you don’t have one on it.
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Oh believe me, I have plenty 
A lot of the paint from the mount has transferred over to the motor (plus some other identifiable nicks. It’s awfully generous of them to take it back like this. I really praise Maytech for their customer support so far.
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It really is a right nightmare trying to remove this motor from the motor mount without breaking anything… I’ve worn down the allen key holes, so I’m thinking about filing the screw head inwards so I can grip it with a vice grips and uncrew it. I’ve used high strength loctite. Apparently heating it to 250°C melts the loctite for easy removal, but I’m a little concerned about whether the motor can withstand that kind of temperature…!
Anyone got any other suggestions/tips for removing the high strength loctite without destroying the motor or mount?
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Can you fit a larger Allen wrench into it or does the hole look like a circle?
Does the bolt have a countersunk hole into the mount? Worst case, I would say you’d have to drill it out with a much smaller bit
Nope it’s basically circled out. No the bolt isn’t countersunk, hence my idea of filing the head of it. I’ll try a mix of heat and filed head, and see if I have any luck. I can’t drill the bolt out because I would most likely end up ruining the thread on the motor which I can’t let happen since I’m returning the motor
If you have one, take a Dremel tool with a fine cutting wheel on it and make a slit in the center of the head. Then you should be able to turn them out with a flathead screwdriver. I had to do that on all 5 of my v4 DIY mount, worked great. Maybe even a hacksaw blade if you don’t have a Dremel…
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In my eyes, I’d say this is the next best alternative if you’re absolutely sure you don’t want to use heat. If you don’t use heat and the loctite is holding the bolt in there that tight, you could end up breaking off the head which leaves you no choice but to drill it out. That probably wouldn’t be good unless Maytech would take it back with a broken bolt in the threads. 
That’s a brilliant idea! I’ll definitely give that a go. Thanks
@Baz_L Just make sure that you make a nice straight slit into the head of the bolt, ideally as narrow as you can to fit a flat blade screwdriver in. That way, you leave the most amount of material for the flathead to grab. And make sure the sides of your slit are perfectly vertical, otherwise your screwdriver will try to slip out of the slot when you start cranking on it. Ask me how I know. 
And hitting it with a moderate amount of heat before trying to dislodge the bolts would not be a bad idea.
Good luck!
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Took on @TheImmortalJew 's idea of making a cut for a flat head, worked perfectly! I didn’t even need to apply any heat, Loctite’s so called ‘high strength’ thread locker was easy enough to unscrew. Thanks for all the suggestions and help guys! Also if anyone needs to do the same in the future, here’s a great idea for applying precise heat that I thought about: use a soldering iron and keep it against the screw for a few minutes to get it up to temperature (if your soldering iron can make it past 200°C). Saves the risk of melting wire insulation I’ll let you know what Maytech’s return procedure is. Cheers!
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Nice, glad it worked out. If you have the clearance for your belt and pulley, I would change those button head bolts for some socket cap ones. More engagement for your hex tool so you can torque them down without fear. I made the change and have yet to strip a head even with red loctite.
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If you want, just sand down the motor mount to get a good flat clean surface and repaint or get it anodized again.
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That would be ideal! Although I have absolute minimal clearance, might try and redesign things a bit to give myself more room, because it’s not exactly ideal using those screws again…
@wmj259 Thanks for the suggestion, that’s on my to do list, as the original paint job was very bad. It just flakes off instantly
You could countersink the slot a fraction of millimeter so the hexbolt can sit and be that case the amount of the hex’s head sticking out would be smaller. Are you saying the hex’s head will stop the pulley from rotating?
Hey there, why did you only use ur bms to charge? Is 60A not sufficient for discharging?
Yep this BMS can only put out 15A discharge, so I bipassed it. There’s no reason to use it for discharging other than short circuit protection, since the VESC can be used for set the max discharge rate, and max discharge voltage.
@Baz_L I received the same mechanical kit as you but I am suspecting that I am missing a part. Did yours come with an ABEC retainer ? It would be something equivalent to this : diy-electric-skateboard-kits-parts/abec-retainer-cap/
Thanks !
Hey man, yep, mine came with 2 of them. I’d say get in touch with the shop, if you bought them from the same place that I did, I’m sure that they’ll be happy to send out a pair for you as I found them to be very helpful.