Where did you get yours blank? Mine came pregripped by muirskate.
Muirskate. Just asked them to leave it blank and include a roll of grip tape.
I ran the spud this weekend for 3 charges. since I still dont have my antispark switch, I just hardwired battery to vesc, closed the enclosure and left the vesc running while riding and charging for 2 days kinda. 
10S3P is quite ok, but I still like 10S4P better. 
suprised about the high speed stability - managed 48kph with fully charged battery and it felt stable. not cantellated tesseract stable, but stable nevertheless.
what I still dont get is the smooth riding - my feet are pretty much right ontop of the trucks and the board still feels soft, even on rough ground. just weird 
must say, hats off to okp, it takes cojones to jump high at 15kph+, because concrete is simply very very hard and any canting could potentially hurt quite a lot. carefully approaching my limits from the right side of āhurtā right now. pretty spoilt from wakeboarding I think ā¦ on water, you can simply do just about anything 
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I love your wiring job. Everything is very neat and tidy. I have a few questions.
- Are you using 12 gauge wire on everything?
- Where did you get the āthickā heatshrink? What size are you using?
- Can you show me how you are going to wire that on/off switch with the anti spark connector?
Thanks!
12AWG are the thinnest wires I use in my builds - my 10S4P batteries have 10AWG connections until vesc, then 12AWG to motor. for this 10S3P and 60A max, I thought I could get away with 12AWG, so its consistently 12AWG for all wires.
the thick heatshrink is from ebay - just search for shrink tube with glue - most of these have pretty thick walls too. there are really insanely thick 1:3 shrink tubes with crazy glue inside. the things you shrink tube with those will stay like that forever. 
the wiring of that antispark is really simple. usually these kind of antisparks (like torqueboards or alienpowersystems) come with 4 wire power switches - 2 wires for LED power (so the switch glows in some color), and 2 for the switch:
diy-electric-skateboard-kits-parts/electric-skateboard-on-off-power-switch/ESK8 Electronics
Im just connecting the 2 switch wires to my simple toggle switch and thats it. dont need the LED power switch because I need the stealth.
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Hello whitepony! Very nice builds! I have one question: where have you bought braid copper, used for batt build?
I saw this and used solderwick, not sure what he used, but it worked fine for me.
I know Iām not whitepony, but I suspect he got it from ebay
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Itās 11mm, not 5mm
This is 6mm, close enough
Or this 5mm from the UK
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I used 5mm wide solder wick, but I recently also bought braided copper wire from ebay (like @jujet linked) - got it now up to 10mm width!
You can make it with silicon and cornstarch. Sugru it wrks great.
Hi Withepony,
I am new to this forum and just noticed your Jet Spud Build using vaccum bagging technology. I love your build! Now, I would also like to try vaccum bagging. The only step I am missing in your description is the process of putting in the resin. did you use a spiral to infuse the resin or how is it done? Sorry for this most probably simple question, but I really canāt figure out how you did it since I didnāt see a second tube where the resin should go into the vaccum bag. Also, how long did you leave the pump running (24h)?
Thanks for your help!
hey, this has not been done by infusion, thatās why there is only one tube (that is used for vaccum) 
Are the bindings being mounted to the board by the same screws that are mounting the trucks? Cuz it looks like it. I just wanted to know if thats the way they are screwed in.
I originally mounted both bindings through outer truck screws, but ended up moving the front binding forward about 1 1/2 inches.
How are your connectors insulated from the carbon? 
If you read the whole thingā¦ he uses really thick heatshrink with glue around the connectors
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I saw that but it looks like the heatshrink doesnāt go all the way to the bottom of the connector @anorak234
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