Yeah you got me there.
I’m pretty sure that switch could fit a couple of trucks motors vesc… and make it rideable
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yeah. That’s not an esk8, that’s a motorized switch.
Anything flat with trucks and motors is an esk8
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2 flat boxes with /monster/ trucks and motors. Esk8s?
Not sure about the pushbutton part of your question but the easiest way I use the loop key is to use an xt-90 like: https://hobbyking.com/en_us/xt90-s-anti-spark-connector-2pairs-bag.html
I place one of these on the positive cable between the battery and esc. I put it in before I ride and remove after. Bonus points if it’s attached to one of these: https://www.amazon.com/Rotary13B1-Insert-Before-Flight-Keychain/dp/B007UL4JKE
Regardless, if you’re still into the switch idea, check out this thread: http://www.electric-skateboard.builders/t/vedder-anti-spark-switches-for-sale-from-18/31847 Sounds kind of like what you’re looking for.
I would certainly ride that… up for sale?
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Depends, most people say they never damaged an ESC/VESC by spark, you see people running airplanes at 14S without anti spark, but you do erode the connector overtime
The best approach is or use an electronic anti spark ou a XT90S that has the anti spark resistor built in. I prefer the electronic one since it looks more clean and professional
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What kind of specs should I use for this resistor? Would I also use a resistor in a loop-key setup, and would it be the same size as this one?
The resistor size was actually discussed in the loop key thread you were referring to earlier. XT90s uses a 5.6 ohm resistor, but you’re not bound to use that value to make it work.
The “momentary push button then switch on” schematic I drew is probably possible, but not the easiest solution… Remember that all your current will go through that push button when riding your board, which means it needs to be amp-rated accordingly. It also needs to be vibration proof, so it doesn’t give continuous cut-outs and sparks… No good…
If you use the XT90S you don’t need to worry about the resistor as it’s included in the plug.
Here is the thing about antispark, its easy to build. I’ve did manual switch antispark system with double switch.
What cause the spark is the capacitor draining so much current directly from the battery. What does antispark does is limit the amount of current the capacitor takes with a resistor. You only need a resistor of 10ohm to do it.
So how does double switch mechanism work? the first switch is momentary switch with 100 ohm resistor, you trigger that (since there is a resistor), it doesn’t spark at all. It will take about 0.5 sec to fill the capacitor. After the capacitor is filled, you can trigger the primary switch (theres no spark), because the capacitor is already filled in and so there won’t be inrush current that will be pulled from the battery. This is the basic mechanism of an antispark system.
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I’ve thought a lot about That idea. To turn on less power hungry equipment like buck converters that would drain max 5A but still have an input cap. The thing is I have only found double switches that have each On position on either side of the Off. Ie. On-Off-On. Wich woulda be ok as long as you don’t get the sides mixed. Ideal would be an Off-On-On switch with the resistor on the centre On. That way flipping the switch from one side to the other would turn on whatsoever going first through the spark resistor. The thing is in not sure that kind of switch exists
Same. I used the anti-spark on a 13s battery and it instantly blew.
No this never be the case. It only blew if you turn the antispark switch system without connection the primary switch. So basically drawing so much amp through the resistor, ofc it blew. But if you use the antispark system just to fill in the capacitor charge and then switch on the primary switch, its no problem. Thats why its best to use momentary switch on the antispark switch so it will never blow.
your problem would be the switch. just try to look up switches which can handle 50A+ and see how large they are
Well that’s about exactly what I said, and that’s why I suggest using a simple xt90s loop key.
@laurnts did use this on a previous build though and could probably share more about how his switch held up.
beside the switch issue, im pretty sure your last drawing wont work.
edit: attention > bullshit answer from me ahead 
you just created a paralel circuit and this way. you’d still get the spark in the main switch.
your first drawing was actualy right (besides missing a capacitor to bridge the powerless once the tactile button is released)
no that schematic looks like it would work. Close the top one, then the bottom one. It’s exactly the same way that the xt-90s loopkey works
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ups, you are right. i kinda forgot that the spark is only created because there is no flow at all. also, i was still thinking about the “melting switch” problem ^^