OK for the HK trucks, here is what I found and suggest.
Nicely made with some interesting design features that may help (reinforcing rib boardside) and may hurt (gapped bushing seat wall). I found the Stock bushings to be around 94a and severely undersized in diameter for both the cone and the barrel (.915" nom) and undersized in height for the Cone (.428"). The stock king pin diameter is .362" and the king pin hole is drilled .387". When you take all those things together you have a lot of potential slop where the truck does not turn when you go off center. It takes several degrees of angulation for the bushings and king pin to go to the end of their tolerance and start the truck turning. This causes a very uncertain center, like the steering of a 1955 Chevy.
Picture shows the available space for bushing shift in the stock set up:
Possible upgrades include RipTide bushings and pivot cups. The HK trucks fit our standard longboard Cones, Barrels, Canons and FatCones (boardside only) and our Indy Pivot cups fit perfectly. I also suggest replacing the stock king pin with a AN6-26A aircraft bolt, the bolt alone takes .010" slop out of the set up. It can be purchased at most aircraft supply stores: http://aircraftproducts.wicksaircraft.com/item/aircraft-bolts/bolt-an6-3-8-24-/an6-26a
Dude! I have that exact board heading to my house in the mail. Do you like the board? I’m a big fan of Rayne but have never had a top mount with a kick made by them. Pretty excited to have as a free ride setup and possibly add power to it in the next year or two. Would you use it as an esk8? Would be very interested to gain your insight on this matter. Sorry to be off topic.
well I love it. Used it for most events/races.
Concave is almost perfect, put a W implant at the back. It is a big deck, ans has a lot of curves. Don’t think it suits esk8 much. Also its somewhat overkill for a esk8 in my opinion. Its a sick sports utility tool for sure. I put a foot stopper as I usually do and with the shape it has feel super responsive.
Go for some cast rogues (cheap), bear kodiaks (medium), or some Ronin prec. (expensive) and you have a setup that you will never outclass.
10/10. All time top 3 of decks i have owned/ridden.
@Alphamail, Just received WFB Cannon and FatCone bushings, like you recommended on TB218. On TB218 they fit perfectly and on @Brakeboard brake truck they also fit but I had to put cannon round side against the hanger. I don’t have a chance to test due to weather.
They are great quality
Manufacturer states the kingpin is pressed in & doesn’t have replacement kingpins listed in the webshop.
You could heat the base plate with a hot air gun, maybe cool the kingpin with a can of butane and try to press it out with a drill press and a jig to hold the baseplate/kingpin vertical… lot of work?
I wouldn’t apply too much force with a hammer, sometimes a clean in a ultrasonic bath can help (if you have one). I’ve had kingpins that wont budge. 15m in the ultrasonic bath and they fall out with a tap. But they are designed to be removed.
Thanks. I’m replacing the stock Blood Orange bushings in the Calibers to the Riptide barrels. The boardside bushings are almost the same height. There’s less than a mm difference in height and I’m comparing new bushings to old, slightly compressed bushings. Is this enough to make a difference in the angle of the hanger?
