Hi.
A student I’m working with has built a board, using a keda 190kv motor, scram board VESC and 12s battery. Following the same pattern that both my boards run without issues. The board has fried 2 vescs! In both instances it bench tested fine and then at slow speed on first run the VESC died… the settings on the VESC are correct as far as I can tell (same as my boards)
The Drv chip has scorching on the top face…
what’s going on?!?
post pictures of your settings please.
These are images of the Xmls saved from VESC tools… app config are the first 3 Motor config the last 4
Er… I think grecoman means VISUAL settings…Not xml
yea I meant screenshots of BLDC tool…
I don’t use the bldc tool, I’m using vedders new VESC tool. Is there a way to view the settings easily in VESC tool? They seem spread across too many pages. There’d be more screen shots than the xml!!
You would not have to share all settings just stuff like battery settings motor settings and such.
take a lot of screenshots.
or buy a new vesc.
Buying a new VESC, but in the interest of me not killing it, please cast your eyes over these screenshots… ta.
Lipo or liipon? Your battery regen seems high
Lipo… 10 char
My best guess? motor phase wire short (unshielded / cut-off shrink wrap)…
Happend to me, not a very pleasant experience. Although mine burnt immediately after I tried to detected it with VESC Tool. He says that it got burnt after 3 minuets of use. Maybe some vibration make the motor phase wires touch each other.
Please upload photos of the motor.
Having high battery regen on 12s can put you close to the max voltage these VESCs are designed for. I’ve repaired several VESCs that were fried from braking downhill on 12s. It’s possible on full charge with high regen current was enough to cause a similar situation. Usually this kills a FET which in turn kills the DRV in my experience.
What would you recommend as a max battery regen on this setup?
The motor looks immaculate, I’ve tried shorting each phase to another and all 3 whilst turning by hand and the motor gives the appropriate amount of resistance in all cases… it may be as someone said that it is damaged insulation combined with vibration to make an intermittent short…
If the wires were soldered on and heat shrink over this would not have happened right?
I’m thinking of useing the 5.5 bullets of my batteies or just direct solder.
