In my opinion the enertion mount is best for chaka’s motors at the moment but… cause u asked here the v3 mount. BANG!
I love my v4 mount tho!
1 Like
Besides sealing the deck so it’s waterproof, have you thought of a way to keep your bearings dry? I know a lot of heavy grease would help. Maybe a hub cab like some of the hub motors have, but without a hole in the center.
@jrpwit Oh yaaaa I remember seeing that mount before. Looks like the V4 is a big improvement. I wish it worked with my motor. It looks like the Enertion mount would be the best for me, but the blue will throw off my color scheme. Maybe I can paint it.
@Mrmoonlight I’ve solved that problem with these ceramic bearings.
Nice, what are the races made out of? Aluminum? Stainless? Might have to get me a set.
Not sure, I just know they are know for working well with water. I’m curious too now what the rails are made of, guessing stainless.
Now that I have all the major parts for my build, the next step is an enclosure, or 2 enclosures. I bought this kydex on ebay and I’m going to thermoform it similar to how @stealth71 did here. I just want to completely seal it up by adding a rubber material around the perimeter and using waterproof epoxy wherever wires or anything comes out.
1 Like
I look forward to seeing how it comes out.
If you have an unlimited budget for bearings then these full ceramic ones ought to help If you don’t want to spend that much I recommend zealous bearings as they incorporate a high tech grease to minimize corrosion. Also you’re going to have issues with traction in the rain, especially with that drive wheel. If you have access to a lathe or I suppose the motor does a similar job you can do this to give you avoid aqua plaining http://www.telusplanet.net/public/gary2a/CS/rainwheels/rain.jpg
1 Like
wow those are expensive bearings! I’ll probably stick with the cheap ceramics I have for now. Good idea for the grooves in the wheel. I’ll try to rig something up to cut those using the motor to spin the wheel.
Nice grooves, but I’ll have to say these are terrible in riding through water even though the purpose of putting groves is giving water a way to move through urethane. Putting groves are terrible because it kicks up so much water while riding on wet pavement.
To be honest I’ve never done it myself, only seen other longboarders do it. They did not report water kicking up but they may not have been looking out for it or been too worried about it with non electric boards
Found that video of some commercial wheels with grooves, they dont seem too bad
Alright so I finally got a chance to attach everything temporarily and ride it for the first time.
The only problem is it only goes 17 mph. My last board I calculated to go 20 mph and it went 18 mph, so I assumed that since I calculated this one to go 22 mph it would go about 20. But it went 17.
I just recently found out that LiFe batteries have a voltage sag when under load so I hooked my multimeter up to the batteries and rode at full speed. The voltage dropped from 33.4 volts to 32 volts. So that must not be the only reason it goes so much slower that calculated.
How big is everyone else’s difference from calculated speed and actual speed?
Anyway to fix this problem I will probably have to increase my motor kv to 200. This will give me a calculated speed of 25.7 mph so it should really go 19 to 20. (then if I want a little more speed I can up the gear ratio (it’s already pretty high at 15:36))
Hey @chaka can I send you my OM5065 170 kv motor and exchange it with a 200 kv one?
I barely used it, it still looks brand new.
I also just got the Kydex I ordered and I will soon start making an enclosure.
Yeah, go ahead and send it back. I can use it on a campus cruiser prototype. The VESC runs at 95% max so you need to calculate for that when running numbers.
I just finished the forming part of my kydex enclosure using @stealth71 s method here. It turned out great . I used the 1/8 inch kydex which is the thickest I could find and it was very difficult to form but it’s extremely strong.
First I made this wood piece to simulate the shape of my batteries:
I glued it to the deck and laid the hot kydex over it and clamped it with foam for about 15 minutes. The corners weren’t very well defined at all at this point: Then after a lot of using the heat gun and pushing the corners in with a paint stick, then lots of sanding, I got this:
This was pretty much an all day job with how hard the 1/8 inch kydex is to form, but it’s well worth the extra strength for me. Next I just have to drill some holes and find the right hardware.
17 Likes
Nice work!!
Am waiting on this deck from the nile myself ! The walnut looks awesome
2 Likes
Finally got the hardware in. I countersunk all the bolts to be flat with the top of the board and it looks super clean
@stealth71 thanks! @Jebe good choice it’s a nice deck
9 Likes
nice work on that kydex 
2 Likes