Back from the Faroe Islands but now I have to get up to speed in school! I won’t be able to get back to building this week but I still wanted to make an update. So I figured I could post a parts list and prices since I have all the parts and have been getting some PM’s about it.
So here it goes! Prices does not include shipping, taxes or any other fees. Price listed is total, not per item. So “VESC x2 = 198USD” is the total cost, not per VESC.
Loaded Vanguard. $367 | 312€ | 3000SEK
Boosted style enclosures. $142 | 121€ | 1161SEK
Dual hub motors from TorqueBoards. $380 | 324€ | 3107SEK
Rough estimate of wires, connectors and misc. $61 | 52€ | 500SEK
Total: $1413 | 1203€ | 11558SEK
The most worthwhile purchases here, without a doubt, are the enclosures from @Eboosted and remote/reciever from @rpn314. I know I’ve praised them before, but it has made this build so much easier I don’t think I would have started if it weren’t for those guys!
Har tyvärr inte kvar förpackningen och jag hittar inte heller den på sidan! Men i butiken låg den jämte 12V strömbrytarna, på “Bil”. Det brukar väll se likadant i alla butiker?
For the past month I’ve barely had any spare time even though school is over. Finally, today I had some hours to spare!
Recently a Swedish hobby/electronics store lowered their prices on one of their electric skateboard. Normally I wouldn’t even consider it, but then I noticed that I could probably remove the electronics enclosure and trucks and transplant them to my Penny.
It took about one hour to complete it! Couldn’t be happier Now we’ll see how long it lasts…
I photographed the electronics to share with you as well! While the soldering/layout looks OK, the advertised 10km/6.2miles seems a little optimistic with that battery pack.
I hope to resume building my Boosted Clone soon. I’m going to San Francisco in a month, so hopefully it will be done by then, if I don’t complete it by then I can’t see me doing it before christmas!
Was it the hobbex esk8 ? Damn, I missed out on that one… I’ve had the same thing in mind for a while. While my DIY is super nice to ride, I sometimes just want to cruise to the grocery store or to the post office with a smaller sized board.
Is that the nickel or the penny ? How’d you work around the flanges on the bottom ?
Yupp, that extra weight can really be off putting sometimes. This board will be my… half last mile vehichle It’s a Penny! Oh, I see how the pictures might be misleading now. There’s actually a lid on it! If you look at the third picture you can see the reflections of two of the six screws holding the lid in place.
Between the lid and the board there’s some padding to distribute the pressure evenly and dampen the vibrations a bit.
Finally got my thumb out of my ass and messed with the VESCs today! I removed all the wires and made sure everything fit before I start soldering again. The stand off risers has been secured with loctite, as will the VESCs once I have double checked that they’re in working order and all hooked up.
It’s going to be a tight fit in the enclosure, but totally doable! It was recommended that I secure the capacitors with hot glue to make sure they didn’t vibrate against the aluminium plate, can’t seem to find who said that, but thanks! It feels much more secure now
Nope, no schematic or anything. I just cut a piece of cardboard to the rough shape I needed and then cut it out from an aluminium sheet using a hacksaw and some files.
I had a capacitor wear through its metal casing and it was just vibrating against a plastic housing. I was like what the hell. So now I try to tack everything down with hot glue and or have it wrapped in some dampening material. The micro vibrations from the road texture is like everything is attached to an orbital sander.
Is it crucial to replace the VESC’s stock capacitors with the x2 6800uF 63V capacitor?
Why did you chose this specific capacitor model? I saw that there are few other capacitors with the same specs but in much cheaper price. Is there any reason you went with this one?