This is my second build and hopefully it’s going to be everything I wanted my first build to be! I’ve got a couple of weeks of work soon so hopefully all parts will have arrived and I’ll be busy putting it all together.
The goals for this board is:
- Reliable.
- Stealthy-ish.
- Good range.
- Reasonbly easy to lug around university.
- Looking goooood!
I’ve read every thread here featuring “Boosted Clones” at least twice, so I think I’ve got a good grasp on what it takes to build a good one. But I’d love to get some input as well!
A lot of the parts are still en route, including the VESCs, hubmotores, trucks and wheels from diyelectricskateboards. The package have been stuck in Denmark for 10 days now, hoping DIYs support will help me get it moving soon.
Partslist:
- Loaded Vanguard flex 3.
- DIY electrics dual hubmotor 75KV.
- 2x DIY electrics VESCs. - With upgraded capacitors due to the extra length for wires. Design inspired by @jackw’s build.
-
Enclosures bought from @Eboosted - The quality is amazing!
- Nunchuck 2.4ghz and reciever bought from @rpn314 - Super stealthy!
- Risers designed by @jackw - They’re gorgeous!
- Anti spark switch from ProtoBoards - Can’t get it to work, not sure if broken. Does anyone know where the transistor goes?
- 5.5mm plugs, 12AWG cable, copper braided strands.
- 40x Samsung 25R that will be spotwelded to 10S4P.
- A cheap chinese 10S BMS that will be bypassed for charging.
To be considered:
- FOC or not? Very tempted to try it out and stick with it.
- CAN bus or Y-config
- %-monitor for battery or not?
- Sanding the fish art on the board or leave it be? Leaning towards sanding.
Pictures:
I added some lining to keep the dust out. It gives a very good seal, might even be splash proof!
Bonus pic of (incomplete)battlestation!
More to come in the following weeks!
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Update #1
Glued together the 18650’s in pairs of 4 and made a mock up of how they’ll fit in the enclosure. It’s a tight fit but should be perfect!
Both the Nunchuck + receiver, some Loctite 243 & 270 and my spotwelder, that I had lent to a user here, came in the mail today! My order from Torqueboards should be here tomorrow, hopefully.
The Loctite 243 will be used for smaller things, like the antenna on the receiver, and the 270(heat resistant) for the hub motors themselves.
Also, thank you @rpn314 for the screwdriver that goes with the nunchuck!
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looking great! also nice photo work too!
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Thanks! I try to not spam too many photos, but there’s so many parts and pieces…
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people like lots of photos, no worries man!
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Update #2
The chinese BMS and adaptors for the sensors on the hub drive came today. I missed the part in the description of the adapters where it said “10x” so intead of getting 2 in the mail, I got 20 of them. Oh well 
No joy on the package from diyelectrics. Should have been here yesterday but hopefully it’ll get here before the weekend. At least I know it’s in Sweden now!
I still need to read up on how to wire this BMS though. It looks pretty different from my 6S BMS which had P+, P-, B+ and B-.
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Looks great! I’m also about to start a similar project to this, I love the stealth of the boosted board and hope to make my own. I just need batteries and then I’ll be able to start haha. Keep the updates coming!
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Thank you 
Make sure to make a post when you start building!
Look forward to see how the electronics all get squeezed into the enclosures and how that extra cap bracket thing turns out.
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It was all good till I saw that BMS…lol
Save your cells, your ESC and your limbs and just toss that BMS and get something reliable, or no BMS and just fuses and proper current limit on ESC
If you’re bypassing charging already all the BMS is doing is acting like a fuse.
How so? I’m bypassing FOR charging, so the BMS will not act as a fuse! It’s just for charging.
I’ll make sure it works properly before “permanently” attaching it to the pack to make sure it’s not a dud.
Bypass for charging means you are not using BMS but plugging batteries directly into charger, correct?
And ESC is connected to output/discharge of BMS?
If thats the case then the BMS will just act as a fuse on the output/discharge, meaning the only function it will perform is current limiting.
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No, it means that the battery is connected to the BMS with positive, negative and all the balancing leads. But the discharge (positive and negative) is also hooked up directly to the VESC.
So the BMS tries to stop the current as soon as I hit the limit, but since the leads also goes to the VESC nothing happens. But you can still balance charge it
So it’s not bypassed for charging…
What I’m doing is called “bypassing BMS for charging”. You bypass the amp limit so the BMS is only for charging. If you search around om this forum you’ll ser that’s what people call it
Not if English is your primary language 
