It actually does have a little flex, I just didn’t want too much flex, as in my case I weigh about 170-180 (but I will rather say 170lb. 
dont call me fat ), carrying a college backpack weighing about 10-15lbs. Every day I gotta go up and down a hill from the car lot to and from classes and it gets tiring especially when the weather is this cold/hot.
Yeah I think little flex is perfect for ESK8 as it is easier to mount the parts
What brand are those?
Floureon 11.1V 3S 40C 8000mAh
Sidenote: Does anyone have any experience with this charger iSDT SC-620 500W 20A MINI Smart LCD Battery Balance Charger http://www.banggood.com/ISDT-SC-620-500W-20A-MINI-Smart-LCD-Battery-Balance-Charger-p-1060646.html?rmmds=category 5 star reviews with nothing but good comments.
Please don’t blow up
Question1.) So in order to do a test of of this battery is truly 8000mAh, I need to fully charge to 4.2V/cell [(12.6)volts total] and then discharge down to… 3.3V? Question2.) I am about to make a connecting harness to put together 3 lipo battery packs. So I want to know what type of gauge wiring to use. ->From what I read on this thread :
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These connectors on the batteries are giving me a headache. I am trying to make a 3Male to 1Female wiring harness to connect the batteries in series. My soldering skills are bad to none.
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Yup those look like cold solder joints. Are you using flux? If not you should get some. First tin the wire and the connector separately before soldering them together. If the wires come apart and touch each other it will be disasterous. Worst case scenario if it doesn’t work for you try and find an electronics repair shop to do it for you.
You need way more solder on the wire too. Since you’re soldering to a flat, I suggest also flatting out the wire. I use a pair of pliers and press it down on the flat. It’ll make it a whole lot easier to solder flat to flat.
I went to homedepot to buy some better wire, got some 10guage wire that only has 7-10 strands of copper in it, versus the wires above that had like 15 thin strands.
I do suck at soldering as I spent few more hours today. I went to a radio/electronic shop and they wanted $45 dollars to solder my connections with my own wire. Just for 7 solder joint…
I think I got one wire soldered very well and was able to get it slotted into the connector casing, need to work on the other wire, now.
Damn this blows, I either get a good solder joint and it fits perfectly with the click sound into the adapter housing or it breaks trying to insert into the adapter.
About to test
First loop checks out good
Second loop is good
Third loop
Checking all again…
Holy sh!t!!! Almost electrocuted myself. Never SEEN a spark that big…EVER!!! 
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Batteries don’t feel hot, wondering if it have to make another harness…
Anyone want to make me one? I got money.
Wiring harness continuity is good for all loops. How do I check the batteries? Don’t have the charger with me.
When you guys put graphics on your boards, do you first, put a layer of clearcoat on it>Graphic sheet>clearcoat to finish? I just bought this spray coat,
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Well, it depends. Some paint dont stick well to the lacquer. Other paints bleed out into the wood making a messy result… maybe ask in the shop what paint and spray lacquer to buy - and in which order to apply.
The graphic I was thinking about using is a vinyl printed sticker.
Then you should definetly use the spray lacquer first
