BIEDA Board | 15ply Vertigo Trampa Urban Carver | Roadside Trampa Carbon Enclosure | Dual Trampa 136KV Motor | Trampa Motor Mount | Dual Enertion VESC-X | 12S4P Li-ion with 60A BMS | 2.4Ghz Remote

@longhairedboy So as I gather and to make it absolutely clear the potential inter-battery-vesc wire length difference issue should be of no concern, right?

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Since we sell our bullet proof decks, not a single customer managed to brake one. 16 years without any deck failing! No chance that a tiny cutout will affect the decks performance.

Frank

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you should try to keep them the same length but unless you’re running FOC, no it really doesn’t matter.

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Could you explain why it makes a difference with FOC?

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i hear that the length of battery to ESC cables makes a difference, as does the length of phase leads to the motor. I forget the length requirements but it has to do with timing. It makes sense if you think about it. By the time the motor reaches its position and the ESC is able to detect that position and then do something based on that information, the motor may have already moved out of the position that the ESC calculated for and then do something based on bad information.

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It sure did take me a while since the last update - it’s cuz I’ve had a little version of me made up of half of my DNA in the meantime, u see.

And so finally here’s the continuation of me making this mindbogglingly time-consuming - and hopefully eventually equally as awesome - piece of an electric skateboard.

I’ve made an ignition socket :stuck_out_tongue: I’ve epoxied it into a piece of aluminium and also sealed the small opening right in the middle of it to prevent water ingress.

And here’s how I’ve mounted the Enertion’s VESCs and the BMS to the tufnol spine thing. The BMS is on two 2mm layers of neoprene, and screwed onto the tufnol with some rubber washers to remove vibration. I’ll stick into a heat-shrink sleeve later.

I’ve also made a spot-welder with a microwave transformer but it turned out to burn holes in the test cells I was trying it out on, and I neither have the time nor patience to make an arduino time switch that would limit the current flow to 500 milliseconds, and so just today I’ve finally sent my 18650s to some pro Polish electric bike builder to weld them cells for me.

Stuck some neoprene strips as cushioning for the batteries.

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Excellent work! I am making the same enclosure. I had made a severe boo-boo using a circular saw trying to cut the slits on in the enclosure. Don’t know how I am going to fix that. Dremel with diamond cutting wheel seems to have the best cutting power against the enclosure which is some carbon fiber enforced plastic. It is tricky to work with, I don’t like saws and high-speed cutting causes chunks to fly.

EDIT: I did find most of the parts on Amazon (phenolic sheet = tufnol), l profile from stanley, neoprene 1/2" x 1/8, etc. No luck with silicone membrane maybe Ebay will have. The m4 10mm screw inserts from Ebay UK to get the right zinc coated ones.

What thickness of tufnol did you use? 2mm or 3mm?

Do you think those slits are butchered? Good to use a sand attachment and hopefully smooth them out. But the gaps will be there due to the circular saw :frowning:

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Thanks a lot, man! :slight_smile:

I wouldn’t worry much about the size of the slits on your enclosure - I can’t seem to find the pics now but I’m pretty sure @nowind had slits of similar width. I’m planning to use a silicone mat between the entire enclosure and the components to water- and dustproof it - and in your case this way the size of those slits there are irrelevant, cause the components will get the impact protection they need and are gonna be waterproof regardless of the slit size. The only thing I’d worry about would be the possibility of a diminished life expectancy of the enclosure due to cracking?? But I’m guessing here. I’d be great if @trampa could have his say on your particular case - he’s the manufacturer and an expert on everything regarding Trampa products.

And about the availability off the products: here in Poland I’ve also had to look pretty hard and long to find the stuff I needed, hence the very gradual nature of my updates :wink: Nothing was found in any one place locally and most of it I’ve had to order either from China or from the some Polish sellers online. So don’t get discouraged and I’m sure you’ll find what you need :slight_smile:

And on top of all of that, you’ve got VESC sixes!!! They are like a god level of diy esk8 making! I’m just saying. I’d love to afford them… maybe in the future tho :wink:

Best of luck, bro!!

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Thank you. I didn’t know @Nowind had a build with the enclosure. Well i did manage to find a lot of items on Amazon. Only thing left is the silicone (for a reasonable price).

VESC6 yes we will see how it performs… i was 95% about to go FOCBOX but i keep hearing of software firmware issues with the new vesc tool.

Cant wait to see your build closer to finally done. These take a long time due to the very specialized parts. I wish Trampa had the enclosure and a parts kit.

I found a cheap xt90 plug cover on hobby king.

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True that!, if Trampa offered all of it on their website, that would make things tenfold easier. But prbbly for a price :wink: And having the electronic components purchased from China makes it really pretty darn cheap. I only had to wait a bit for the delivery (the bit being 2 months in some cases, tho ;P).

And thanks for the silicone covers and wishes of quick fruition of the project!, it’s a desire most certainly shared :wink:

Edit: I’ve just noticed, you’ve got nowind’s sealed gearboxes as well! Shit, bro! This is gonna be one heck of a beauty, this Trampa of yours! I do envy you as hell! :slight_smile: and gonna go down the same way once I manage to gather enough funds for a next one… which will prbbly be in like 2 decades xD

We stock some stuff now.

Frank

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A whole lotta holes.

The cells finally welded and stuck into heatshrink with prolyproylene strips to exclude the possibility of nickel shorting and neoprane strips as padding.

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You heard the boys, stealth carbon black is the way to go. :wink:

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Slowly but surely :wink: A few more steps onward.

For some reason (like my GODDAMN 2000$ BOARD CATCHING ON BLEEDING FIRE AND FRYING MY FLAT AND MY FAMILY TOO WHILE ITS AT IT) @Eboosted’s recent thread kept me from falling asleep lately.

and so after @gogomrrobot’s [quote=“gogomrrobot, post:79, topic:35012”] Padding the crap out the batteries. [/quote] ima padding and insulating the living shit out of my liions.

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I’ve made a groove going from underneath the front side of the enclosure to the voltmetre.

Aaaaaaand’ve finally sorta managed to finish the battery… sorta.

Tomorrow gonna try to wire it all up. Keep ur fingers crossed, bros.

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How difficult was to make the groove, I heard working on the Trampa carbon fiber can be a PIA

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See the folder knife and gas grips on the floor behind the board in the first pic? These two plus a small file were the only tools I’ve used… the gas grips as a hammer :wink: I’ve worked with wood and other stuff in my time as a construction worker, and this deck’s fabric is really easy to work on - more or less like your average pine wood.

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Wow, really nice work. Yeah you can never be too safe with the battery installation and yours looks pretty good. Make sure none of the ballance wires could move or vibrate on anything, the insulation could wear through over time.

Your photos are nice too. :relaxed: subbed!

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It’s not to much of a Job. People have done a lot of modifications in the past. As long as you use appropriate tools things like this is no big deal.

Frank

I’ve been soldering shit since primary school, srysly. But the complete, DAMNED lack of experience working with live wires shows in the most rage-inspiring, depression-exacerbating, disheartening ways… FUUUUUUUCK!

The thing is… I’ve fried one of my VESCs while wiring the setup, by having the negative cable of the battery already connected to the VESC and accidentally shorting these three pins with a positive battery wire:

And so the underside of my working VESC looks like this:

And the other one like this :poop:

Wut do nao? I’ve done lots of SMD soldering so do you recon it’d be better to just order a spare yellow capacitor and resolder it? You think it’s the only thing fried? Or maybe the chip above the fried cap and DVR may be done for as well?

Right now I’ve contacted @fottaz and he very kindly said he’d try to fix it for me if he can, but do you guys recon it’s worth the hassle? Or is it beyond repair and I should just buy a new one?

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