@benwong Iām using ppm splitter. So each vesc is setup independently then connected to the same receiver.
@JLabs Sweet, yep Iāll see if the issue is present when I finally road test it.
@Jinra The link you gave gives instructions which solve a binding issue, but my issue isnāt a binding issue, but a difference in rpm when applying the throttle. Side-note the remote connection and automatic binding is awesome on the mini remote. It binds instantly every time and the range is ridiculous!
for my suggestion, use canbus connection can solve your issue. any other expert can give some idea?
I only used ppm splitter since many said that itās a much more reliable means of controlling a dual setup compared to can bus. With can bus if one vesc gets cooked then the other enters the shadow realm as well i.e. dead 
ppm splitter is much easier to implement as well.
Maybe someone can clarify all that?
An issue with the winning remote was that when you turned it off ppm signal shot up leading to acceleration. The solution was to rebind the remote.
Oh, I mustāve read that wrong 
Im not sure why but the ppm signal issue has fixed itself, I just rebooted each vesc and now itās fine. Will see if the issue surfaces again.
Well Iāve mostly finished this build but I only got to ride this board for a few days and youāll see why. But firstly hereās a few pics of the build process for the battery pack.
I hand soldered the 10S4P pack using 12awg equivalent solid copper wire and 11mm wide copper braid with a 60W watt iron I got for $22 from ebay. It held up extremely well even after 4 hours of continuous use on max setting.
Hereās my setup of organised chaos! Living in college does present challenges in terms of available space but itās easily overcomeable.
Iāve used duct tape as opposed to hot glue to secure the cells since I wanted each individual cell to be easily replaceable. Each cell is pre-tinned with solder, making sure to minimise heat transfer to the cell, with each cell only needing a max of a few seconds for a good bond to form.
11mm wide copper braid is used for the serial connections. Not sure what AWG equivalent this would be but itās very wide!
The separated packs are joined with 10AWG wire.
Iām currently using the DPS5015 coupled with a 48v 360W led array power supply which easily delivers 6 amps or more for quick charging and with adjustable cutoff voltage.
If I had the opportunity to do it again I donāt think I would hand solder a pack of this sizeā¦ It took me at least 6 hours, bear in mind Iāve obviously never done something like this before and Iām sure I could get better at it but I donāt think itās worth practicing something like this. Just buy a spot welder and if youāre really short on money sell it once youāre done!
Now comes the sad part. Unfortunately I didnāt take any photos of the finished setup for this build before I rode it but essentially it ended with the motor mounts giving up all together after a few days of riding 
Now Iām going to be perfectly honest, once the build was finished I rode it and beat the hell out of it for 2 days straight. After waiting in anticipation for over 3 months all I wanted to do was ride into the sunset and all through the night. Well thatās exactly what I did and holy shit balls it was fucking amazing!! It was honestly the most fun Iāve had in ages. Way more fun than the Bajaboard that I rode sometime ago. I rode it up and down 25% gradient hills continuously, I rode it on the beach, in the rain, on the footy ovals, basically whatever the terrain and whatever the weather I rode through it
So here is my verdict on some of the parts after abusing the crap out of it the past two days:
The motor mounts: Well obviously as I said they failed only after a short time of use. No they didnāt snap in half or anything drastic but the screws that hold the mount in place came loose and dropped the motors on the ground. I made sure to use loctite on all screws and let it cure for 48 hours. The reason the mounts loosened is simply a design flaw. The point of contact is only on the screws themselves since the plate doesnāt sit flush on the truck hanger. Additionally the position and orientation of the screws is such that there is not enough clamping force exerted on the mount onto the hanger. Just take a look at the photo and youāll see what I mean. From a design perspective the mount offers no where near the amount of structural bondage to the hanger that other mounts would provide.
Maytech vescs: These were the parts I almost expected to fail. But after doing consecutive hill climb after hill climb they held up just fine and performed beautifully. I have the end cutoff temperature set at 90 degrees C and never once did it hit that. The brakes are way too strong at the moment so Iāll have to reduce max brake amps.
Note that I only weigh 60kg or so, That definitely plays a part in the amount of stress put on the electronics. Thus at a max of 30 amps each they arenāt really under very high loads especially in a dual configuration. Thus the outcome will most likely be very different if these vescs are used in a single drive config with a more moderately sized user, decide carefully and buy according to your use case scenario. Even though these have performed fine so far, just spend the extra cash on a more reliable vesc.
Jlabs sealed motors: Even though they donāt look so good after being scraped along the ground they are awesome. Great protection with the sealed design and they never got remotely warm, even after extremely steep hill climbs consecutively, obviously me only weighing 65kg plays a part.
Trucks: the trucks were fine during my testing. They look like Paris clones I guess. The bushings on these make them super carvy and not really suitable for speeds over 30km/h.
Deck: Well as you already know the deck snapped in the middle. So I duct taped the shit out of it and rode it anyway! You may think that this was the dumbest thing I could possibly do and I agree with you! But it did hold up after my abuse and I will no longer ride it ever again. Already ordered a brand new flex 2 vanguard 
So should you buy from Chinese vendors? I think the short answer is no. I was really hoping I could save a significant amount of money but in the end I couldāve saved a lot more if I had just bought quality parts to begin with. Sure the maytech vescs are holding up for now but I cannot recommend the deck or any of the mechanical kits that sell on taobao. In the end whatever you build you want it to last. By buying quality components or making your own quality parts you end up saving money in the long run since youāre not constantly replacing things. Nor should you be putting your safety in the hands of inferior components.
So what now? Iāll be replacing mostly everything I think needs upgrading with better more quality components. This starts with the deck which Iāll be replacing with a flex 4 vanguard. The trucks are going to be replaced with 44degree midnight satin red caliber IIās with enertion style dual motor mounts. Iāve also purchase genuine 90mm 75A ABEC flywheels. This build will be on hold until everything arrives, eta for the mounts is probably another month 
In the meantime I might pull the battery apart, add a bit more reinforcement and insulation and measure each parallel pack. Until then, stay tuned
For the motor mounts if you use in weld to hold it down it will not move a bit
You could also drill a small hole in the trucks so that the screw sits inside a hole instead of the outer round surface.
@SyrusB Iāll give that a go before the new mounts get here.
@Ronny_CTS Thatās what I did. I made sure to drill small divets into the truck precisely where the screws would sit. Even that didnāt work and I donāt like the fact that it could affect the structural integrity of the hanger.
drill hole and screw it into truck not work? Mounting still slip away?
I have same thinking with you too. Instead of buying from china taobao, i had order some mount from shogu for backup too.
Good and honest review and hope my deck can last abit longer and wont crack. Haha.
Yeah drilling mounting holes didnāt work. Iāve since epoxied the mount in place, waiting for it to cure and weāll see how it holds up until the mounts from shogu arrive.
did you need to install the bootloader yourself on the maytech DRV cookers to get it to work with the BLDC tool?
No, they worked out of the box with the bldc tool I downloaded from enertions website.
As far as I know you only need to install the bootloader if you want to use custom firmwareās like ackmaniacās. Some people have reported not needing to install bootloaders when using them for custom firmwareās but I wouldnāt count on it.
hey. do you use BMS? if so, how? charging, discharging, balancing etc.
No bms, using a DCDC buck converter to charge at 6 amps to 41v.
Epoxy wont do anything, the mountās will easily be shaken loose. Try drilling a deeper hole, putting loctite in the threads and then make sure that the grub screw is definitely deep in that hole and not slipping around on the round surface of the hanger.
Iām glad to be proved wrong
Happy for you that itās been working out!
Assuming a good bond between the truck and the mount the epoxy should definitely hold up Itās not a certainty of course, stuff fails all the time but it should be fine.
