it’s ridiculous how I have like 5 horsepower come from motors at maybe 1mm of transmitter trigger travel. Newbies flip off the board like rag dolls and experienced people still have trouble dealing with the sensitivity. It seems the most dangerous part of the board for this and other reasons.
I’m looking for something that has more travel and that travel is connected to good incremental adjustment on the throttle and brake (Ive found some remotes seem to have maybe only 4 or 5 degrees of braking possible), good reception, a battery that lasts and also has a warning when low, doesn’t break on the first fall to the ground, and small.
the best I’ve come across is the mini trigger and its pretty good except the travel isn’t as large as I’d like and it doesn’t have quite the increments of adjustment on the braking I’d like
I’ve got the mini trigger. Cheap and replaceable.
Used the gtb2 but was too large. Used the may tech but wasn’t mad on the short throw in the thumb control.
I’m currently using a second hand benchwheel remote and I really dig it. The only problem I see with it is that it has very light Springs, and it’s easy to jam full throttle if you’re not careful. However, the thumb throttle is the way I go, and I really dig them
Have u tried cutting the plastic for mini remote? It adds some possibility to water enter the case but it does increase throttle travel… was one of the first things i did to the mini remote,
second one i planned was installing mini volt meter but since batteries seem to last a long time never implemented it (though still see it as worthy not to carry extra set of batteries as a backup plan)
Some more extras would be to add slow / fast mode, heard it is possible with resistors (not 100% sure nano remote or enertion remote has it with resistors made possible)
tried the nano and maytech but not enough travel in the thumb controlled ones, as a result it’s way too twitchy, especially braking at higher speeds
the smaller controllers are nice because they tuck away into ones pockets real easily but the lack of feel really kills it for me.
also never had a single drop on the 2.4, despite the receiver being right next to the main power wires, and the sync is almost always instantaneous for me.
i thought we figured the 200 motor amps didn’t go to 200 anyway and there’s an internal limit at 120. but I don’t know and just ride whatever @evohyax set it at and think he’s using the focboxes in here.
the high motor amps likely does contribute as you say but programing for less power so you can handle it with a dinky remote is not what I want to do
what motor amps will the focbox do?
I have to agree with @joeadams101 moded gt2b for the win, small,compact,and reliable.
The mastercho mod is easy to install a gt2b in,no moving the charge port or anything like that just simply cut a bit of the pcb on one corner near the trigger to make it fit!
There is no internal 120A limit.
Maybe just post your amp limit settings, the number of motors, firmware version, control mode and the throttle curve and then i can give my suggestions for a fine controllable power output.
And even more helpful would be a video with my app where we can see the realtime data values where you drive the way you want to drive. Then it would help a lot to fine tune it.
Setting the deadband so that you get the most usable movement without it twitching when the trigger vibrates is pretty key, aside from that can extend the trigger arm to turn the small degrees of change into a larger motion, with wheel designs just need a larger wheel to make more motion for the same turning, ultimately comes down to how big you’re willing to make the remote. I made the trigger area big enough I can squeeze two small fingers in there and easily push into braking or acceleration even with thin gloves on.
Literally have 100 of those green boards for sticking between the radio and arduino and for tapping out the ESC and potentiometer pins needed to get signals in and out of the arduino for acting as a transmitter and receiver. I’m willing to get rid of them at cost plus shipping to anyone interested in making their own, PM me ( $2 for a board or $3 for a pair plus shipping )
Basically across the entire turning of the potentiometer (270 degrees) it goes through 1024 digital values (from 0-1023) when reading the analog to digital converted value (0-5V gets turned into 0-1023 the number). If you can only move the potentiometer say 30 degrees out of the full 270 it’s designed to turn then you only get 30/270 = .11 or 11% of the usable range so out of the 0-1023 you only use 113-114 values, so you really have 50 steps of positive throttle and 50 steps of negative throttle. If you go lower angle change than that you get less usable resolution on the motion.
This is a new shell for a controller I made over a year ago and has the same old brains
I have to say that what kind of board/riding style you practice makes a huge difference on what kind of transmitter you are holding.
I ride MTB on adverse off-road conditions and falling on my hands is likely on every outing. So, apart from the trigger resolution, i.e. length of the trigger and sensitivity, I have to make sure that my finger never fits fully into the trigger position, meaning that I put my finger on the very tip of the trigger so in case of a fall, my finger does not trigger an accidental command as I am letting go of the transmitter.
I also want a cheap and easily replaceable transmitter as it will tend to stop working after a few falls, mainly due to the dust getting into the on/off switch. I always have another transmitter as a spare, I go through them like cookies
Worth $24 including shipping.
Hands down best remote I’ve used (when considering connection stability / dropouts and failsafes) is certainly Benchwheel (which uses awesome NRF24L01 daughter board). Ergonomics wise, Winning Nano v2 is well, a winner for me But I didn’t find a perfect remote yet.
Worth $24 including shipping.
