Ok, guys here is the beginning of my build log! I’m very excited about this!
I had another thread with initial questions here but I’m transitioning over to start the actual build thread. I have received most of my components and will start posting pictures ASAP as I won’t be able to contain myself (so much for finals) with this build!
Here is a list of my parts with prices including shipping. I originally wanted to do this for $500-600 USD…
Board:
-Arbor Axis Maple 40" $105.06
(originally was going to make my own Loaded Vanguard clone, but time is of the essence)
-Caliber 2 50 deg. Trucks $34.95
-Pacific Flyer Abec 9 Bearings $12.95
-Truck Risers and Hardware $10.59
-83mm Flywheels (Abec clones from Amazon) $26.99
Propulsion System
-Alien 6374 HEV 240KV 3300W for mono drive $113.95
-DIYElectric VESC $109.99
Mounting
-DIYElectric Mono Drive Kit: $106.99
13/36 tooth 12mm wide pulleys
Single motor mount for Caliber Trucks
Power System
(2) 4s 6000mah Turnigy running in series to make 8s 6000mah $105.53
DROK digital battery indicator $13.85
Control System
-Alien Power System 2.4Ghz Remote with Rx $63.51
-Misc wiring, connectors, hardware, etc. $18.80
Total Price of E-board (so far…) $845.19
So you can see that I came in well above budget, but that’s ok. I didn’t directly calculate, but I guesstimated shipping was nearly $100 dollars from all of this!! So I wasn’t too over budget just in component prices. It’s still cheaper than a manufactured board and it will be MY custom board! (I’m still thinking of names for the board - let me know if you have any suggestions as the build progresses).
That’s all for now, keep watching for updates. And again, I have to thank everyone who contributes here because without you this build would not be possible!
@wmj259 As far as I know, you could fit duals if you go with the shorter stator size (i.e. 6355 or smaller), not with the 6374 I have though. I don’t intend to make this a dual drive at the moment and if I do, I’ll just go diagonal dual. I am not sure what the difference is between caliber 2 vs others.
Beautiful Arbor deck. I’m also thinking to mount the trucks under the board even though it’s a dropthrough board. Use the opening to mount the voltage display so I can keep an eye on my charge level while riding.
BMS from hobbyking (just for charging). This is an integrated temperature switch right? two white wires with a white block on the end with a 60degree Celsius marking? If i cut this off will it bypass it or mess up the BMS?
I threw on some 1/2" risers but I feel like this is too much now - there is tons of ground clearance.
Lastly, the board has more flex than I had imagined (I’m a heavy guy) so I I might have to revisit the single enclosure.
P.S. Yes I know there is no motor pulley on there right now. I was just mocking things up. Everything is just hand tight for now.
@Eboosted This is the only other one I have for the moment. I might see what the ground clearance looks like with the trucks mounted drop-thru later, but I like the idea of a lot of ground clearance. It will help with the bulkier enclosure since I’m using two 4s LiPos right now.
@wmj259 What board?! Lmao, I thought about that when I was posting it. These were rushed as I am working on my thesis and finals this week. I will be spending countless hours working on this in the coming weeks once Winter Break starts! I’m just trying not to overstress myself while writing papers, preparing presentations and doing research…at least no actual tests for finals - Grad school is good about that.
Anyone? Does the temp block have to be in contact with whatever it is sensing or is it sensing temp of the drivers on the BMS? Can I cut it off to bypass it?
I should get 11 miles. And according to esk8 calc I should hit about 25 mph top speed with no load.
Again these are with no load, and I am a 210lb guy so definitely won’t get anywhere close to these numbers, but it’s a good starting point for design considerations. Hope this helps
So I can’t find a wiring schematic for this particular hobbyking BMS. There is no indication of which terminal will be the first cell and which will be the last (1-8) from the balance leads. Does it matter? Is there a way I can check some continuity without any power hooked up? I don’t want to ruin anything. I found a wiring schematic for the smaller version with only 4A charge and 10A discharge that shows the left most terminal (in the second pic) would be the first cell, do you think it would be the same for this larger version? Here are the images I have of each side. Again, I know this doesn’t provide the discharge current I need, but I am bypassing this and only using it for charging. Once I save up and upgrade the battery I will upgrade BMS also.
Edit SOLVED! (According to HobbyKing) The correct wiring for anyone looking for this is:
-Looking down on the side with the balance connector from left to right the order is [1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8]. The picture shows the wiring order:
The motor would hit the deck when turning, and with it moved far enough away to not hit, it was extremely close to the ground…too close for comfort (not pictured).
So I will be going with the 1/2" risers after all. I will also be running this inboard instead of outboard. I like the more inconspicuous look with it under the board instead of sticking out back. I have modified my wiring diagram one last time now that I have mocked EVERYTHING up.
I am officially ready to start testing components and then building the enclosures. I can’t find my fiberglass woven fabric and I am thinking of possibly using some leftover 6oz uncoated polyester fabric I have from building a DIY skin-on-frame kayak. It is much thinner than the fiberglass, and has a very tight weave. I cannot seem to find anything online about using it with regular fiberglass resin/hardener. I think I am going to do a test section and see how it holds up. I will probably have to do multiple layers. I will post pictures when I have them.
I have tested the batteries, and then soldered/wired them into one 8s battery. I added the BMS and mounted it on the battery, wired into place along with the XLR connector for charging. I double-checked voltages and balance connectors. Now I can start to mock-up the enclosures. I probably won’t be able to actually build them until after the holidays, but maybe I can squeeze in some time to get more work done.
Slowly but surely… I laid out components and drew bases for the enclosures I am going to attempt possibly next week! Finishing one last paper and then I’m free of this semester - just one more semester left!! The enclosures will be linked with 10AWG from the power switch to VESC, nothing fancy on routing of wires for now, just mesh shielding and fixed with ring clamps to the deck.
Enclosures are going to be polyester cloth coated in resin, probably do some vinyl on the outside so I don’t have to spend so much time finishing and painting them. No vacuum forming here, all by hand - but I have some old tricks to keep bubbles to a minimum. I’ll post up more as they come along.
P.S. Thanks for giving me badges to let me know how much time I HAVEN’T spent on finals (aka reading posts and time spent here) in the past weeks!!
Cloth wrapped and ready for first coat of resin. Once the first resin coat is on the cloth, the bases will be cut away so that I can mold them to the board better.
