I agree in the flange issue, as it is the flange at tooth depth is sufficient to keep belt from wandering and rubbing wheel. Anything worse wild mean the motor pulley is the problem.
On fit, you found the right balance in not rubbing against the uro. I am happy as-is but if you have a method for me to give you more precise measurements then I can try. Not sure what would work, calipers or maybe getting some clay and forming it inside the cone then taking it out to measure?
As I said, I am good as-is if you want to go final and crank out the tooth & widh versions you have in mind. Not hearing from anyone else soā¦anyone else have an opinion? Maybe we should also post this in the other 107mm thread.
So Iāve spent the day fixing the files but wont get the chance to release them tonight as Iām expected elsewhere. So Iām waiting for @E-Boarding or @caustin just double check the depth measurements for the MBS-Wheel from the 46mm ring around the core to the back of the wheel. Or if anyone else has a set of calipers and can check that it would be greatly appreciated.
So Iāll be able to upload all the files tomorrow evening. Will update the Both Kegels, the Flywheels and Clones, a new one for the MBS all terrain wheel since the depth is different (need a confirming number, tentatively 6mm) and will be making the 107 series as well, those to be improved as more people use them. All available in 9mm,12mm, and 15mm belt widths. I think that will be it from me before school as I have one other project with pullies to finish as well. Will confirm when all the fixed files are uploaded.
I Just wanted to say thank you for all your work!
I think Iāll end up using a few of these. having all these options available to the community is an incredible asset
Cheers!
This is awesom @JuniorPotato93. I have the MBS wheels to measure but no calipers. Can give it a try I the morning and report back but not sure about the precision accuracy. I remember seeing this come up in a thread earlier, the depth of the uro layer that separates the black plastic wheel core from the pulley side of wheel. The part that @E-Boarding carved out of his wheel and looked like around 6mm. I will try and confirm 6mm or see if +- mm.
Seriously, what can we do to help you out I return for this massive donation of your mad skills and time to the community?
Thatās was kinda the idea. Hereās my reasoning though. My entire build has fucked me on import fees and taxes and shipping fees for importing things to Canada. My budget has got through the roof because of it. I paid 20 dollars for motor pulleys and was charge 43 dollars for duty when it crossed the border.(Canada) Like what the actual flying butt nuggets is that load of bs. So I refused to buy a pulley for my wheels. And then I figured it canāt be just me. So this is my gift to everyone whoās ever been fucked by shipping.
Iām not asking for anything. Thereās been a lot of people asking for paypal and Iāve said no for a while but I ended up putting a donation link on Thingiverse but you donāt need to.
My goal was to provide options for those in the community. Itās expensive for a small company to off so many options for a number of wheels. Each mold for these pulleys in different belt widths to fabricate is easily a couple grand for each if not more. Theyād charge up the butt to be able to make their money back in a reasonable period of time. So if I can help out and provide option in exchange for some of my time then why not. Especially when itās gonna end up costing you a few bucks to 3D print. It helps out so many more people than just us since i realize is not something that everyone has access to. And this site. Thereās been over a thousand downloads collectively so it canāt be just us on this site. Iāll be putting a link to this site in the description to help increase our community numbers and participation as well.
if nothing else the flange just helps keep the pully flush and level against the wheel while keeping it a safe distance from the urethane.
calipers work well for these kinds of things. I finally got myself some a few months ago and now i find myself measuring everything, sometimes for no reason.
For anyone that might be wondering, I used M5-.8 x 70mm socket cap screws from Home Depot to secure the pulleys. Cheap to print and ship to me, ~$4.26 for screws, and ~$1.23 for nylon nuts - cheap, so I really canāt complain!
I like how you went backwards and put the head on the inside. Youāre not defined by the rules of society. Youāre a free man. Also Iām glad you like how they fit
Haha, thanks. Truthfully, the reason the nut is on the outside is because I couldnāt fit a socket on the inside nut well of the pulley if I were to put the nut on the inside. Oh well. Unless someone tells me itās going to jeopardize its structural integrity, Iāll probably just keep it this way.
Lol yes I noticed that too. If you use nylon nuts they are hard to tighten in traditional configuration unless the nut head is big enough to get locked into the hex shaped holder. My nylon nuts were not big enough heads to lock into, so was hard to crank then fully down that way.
Honestly I figured most of you guys would be using metric so thatās what I went with. Like even here in Canada youāll find very few metric options in stock at home depot but theyāll have all the imperial available 100% of the time, so I went with that. Also, look like the m5 nut is 8.00mm across the flats and the 10-32 or 10-34 is 9.54mm. The hexagonal cut out is sized for 10.05mm to allow for shrinkage from print general tolerance of mosrn3D printers. Honestly though, putting the screw in backwards is not a huge deal if youāre going to use metric.
M6 nuts are 10mm across the flats. May be a tight fit but could work. Though the holes are intended to be for the 10-32(or 24) or as seen an M5 fits as well. Not sure about the M6. You may have to bore out the holes. The extra trouble may not be worth it. Just go in reverse.
I honestly just went with whatever I saw first and threaded in lol. The M5 worked great, and the holes didnāt need to be bored out any. I could hand turn it for a little bit, but then brought out a ratchet to do the rest of my bidding for me.
Iām overall pleased with it. I get some shiny bling on the outside of my wheels too, so more style points lol
Good to see the bolt engage the full nut. Saw one online on thingiverse where the bolt didnāt make it to the nylon ring which defeats the point of using lock nuts.
How soft are those green wheels?
Iām looking for a wheel option for cement paths with nasty cracks.
donāt like going chunk chunk chunk chunk down the path
