I’m in Europe and used 3DHubs to print it locally but it’s not as cheap as the US-guy. I paid about 20 Eur per pulley
I’m just realizing I can make the ABEC/clone series fit these without having to mod your wheel, the MBS ones. I’ll just keep the max diameter of the cone below 53 and ad a flange to any pulleys that have teeth larger than the 53mm diameter. That way its the one pulley that works with 3 wheels,
Only had a quick chance to try fit and bolt in with hardware I had sitting around (bolts too long, nuts too small), so will take a closer look and pictures or video tomorrow. But…WTF, these totally fit! JP master pulley artist is 99% perfect I would estimate, which is good enough to run with but am sure we can tweak.
Anyway here are a few pictures I quickly took as I bolted them on. Outside retainer first:
As for @E-Boarding lol you must have laughed at the rubber marks on my 107mm from prior tests, inside flange probably makes sense but in taking a closer look at the htd5mm teeth and how they are side-filled around the edges that accomplishes abit as well.
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OMG IT WORKED… LET’S SEE THE BACK SIDE OF THE WHEEL!!! This keeps telling me to be more descriptive so here we go. Can we please see the backside of your beloved abec 107 flywheels with the customer 107 flywheel pulleys of which only one copy exists and you hold the precious in your hands, close to your warm bosom.
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is there a way to like something twice on here? 
Man, I’m so stoked. They bolt up okay? How’s the fit? Were they hard to seat? I have so many questions. Holy shit man. We did it. We fucking did it. With some pictures, a standard wooden ruler and with some information already provided on here. That’s insane to me. An absolute fucking pleasure to work with you all. I LOVE THIS PLACE.
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have to drop into a work thing now, but will throw in my bag and to take home and can take pictures of any specifics. Thinking a video tomorrow morning will perhaps show the tight fit that is hard to illustrate from still foto. They were not hard to seat at all, and looks like the retainer prongs just barely touch the pulley prongs. Looks like the angles are right, cant tell if they touch the whole way in and where they seat but closer look tomorrow should show. without bolting in, there is very little play at all so that says pretty close to exact! Let me know what you want me to check and report on, I will circle back to this in a few hours later tonight (east coast time)! Thanks again, and amazing work!
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soon, I’ll get some of thes 107mm monsters too… what’s the max nr of teeth on the 107mm 54t, 56t ?
I haven’t looked into it yet. Didn’t get that far because i didnt think it would work first try. I’ll have to check later today or tomorrow morning.
If you have flanges on motor gear None are needed on wheel gear .
In theory this is 100% true. But theory doesn’t always work, this is like that assumption in physics class where you assume friction is negligible. Because a DIY pulley, or any pulley for that matter will never be perfect, it will have some forms of imperfections either in printing it or mounting it despite our best efforts to try and eliminate them. Which means your belt will wander. It will hit your wheel if you don’t have a wheel side flange.
The fuck is up with auto-corrent on this phone. Printingredients is not a real word…
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awesome work guys!!!
Mine does’nt have wheel flanges and has never touched wheel ??
If it wanders even with motor flanges,…something is definately off !
It doesn’t hurt to have them. Unless you’re really working with a very tight space. These pulleys will always have an inside flange but you can print them without the outside flange if you want to reduce the width a little bit.
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Alright so Looks like the max number of teeth that we can put onto the 107’s at a HTD5 pitch is 58. So the 107’s then will be offered from 36-58 only in the already commercially available pulley tooth counts because there’s potentially a lot of pulleys to be made there and I dont have a lot of time before school. The 60T pulley would leave you with just under 1 cm of clearance. once @caustin lets us know how they perform and what not I’ll get on making the series.
So, a couple of things to report and suggest.
Firstly, I shared this install video of the 107mm 44T 9mm HTD5m ABEC wheel pulley with @JuniorPotato93 and now have it on a public link. Caveat being, that it is long-ish and I have not edited it down (this is not my “wheelhouse” lol). Was not sure how to show where the pulley met the interior cone uro vs plastic hub, so showed it a few different ways. If people view it, maybe they can suggest better ways or different angles to picture it from.
This is a 3Dhub print with PLA 100 micron layer, 80%-ish infill I believe
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B2Oa_ikSs60IUWJ6ejA2VlBTWXM
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As for reactions, it still is a great fit from my readout. I would suggest if it makes sense to get another tester to also try it also, for more input before calling it done, someone who has a 107mm build ready or at least the wheels should speak up here. I was not able to fully test under load as am short a motor and belt pulley solution that truly fits. I did light test unsafely fitting it onto my evolve (took 8-9 washers, leaving little thread to bolt), but not a proper full ride under load to listen, feel during and inspect afterwards.
I did not uncover any issues, and if pressed to come up with any perfect world modifications, it would only be to perhaps tinker with/expand the cone thickness/angle to see if it can sit directly onto the entire interior slope of the urothane in addition to sitting on the plastic wheel core outside the bearing. Same for the retainer perhaps.
That said, there is no loose fit or play in the pulley at all once installed as-is, even with only a loose hand tighten of 3 M5 bolts and nuts that also were just what I had sitting around (not perfect length or nut size). So bolted down properly, this thing is secure and functional. And better it sits directly engaged with the plastic core than only the uro cone.
The only other thing would be question of flanges. The pulley I tested did not have a extended wheelside interior flange (or other side) so does not have an extra correction barrier from belt/wheel rub if motor pulley is not exactly positioned correctly. Seems people are of different opinions on whether flanges are helpful or redundant and takes more space in an already tight situation. I would maybe consider a small wheelside interior flange, or flanged versions in addition to non-flanged (or a print option for those who know what they are doing with printing, unlike me lol).
Anyway, let me and @JuniorPotato93 know your thoughts, other things to answer or show here for those looking for review.
And happy to have others take a trial as well!
lol would need a urothane rim on a 60T pulley!
On a somewhat related note, I am getting inconsistent results using the pulley belt and center distance calculators: https://sdp-si.com/eStore/CenterDistanceDesigner http://www.bbman.com/belt-length-calculator/
Not sure I am inputting the right calcs here, can someone give me any pointers. For example, I have a 15T motor pulley that I was going to use with the 44T wheel pulley resulting in a pretty long belt at 310mm. Checked calcs on both links with more traditional 14T 36T = 260mm belt but not super clear I understand input for center distance (63mm) and the min teeth in mesh or 5 or 6?
As I will be ordering belts for several of the 107mm higher teeth count wheel pulleys I would like to get this right! Can someone double check and explain on both online calculators above, using 15T/44T, 14T/36T and another example so that I can then start to use it correctly with proper center distance inputs/outputs. I know, noob question lol!
There is a flange on both side. The belt will never touch your wheel. The flange on the wheel side is the same diameter as the teeth themselves. For two reasons really, first of which you can print without having to support it. (even though you should be printing these with support anyways for the cutouts that accept the hardware). And the second is thats all you need to prevent it from drifting. Theres 1.5mm between the wheel and the inside of the flange so thats the closest your belt will ever get to touching the wheel.
I’d like to make it a closer fit to the urethane as well though I didnt want it to be too big first time around. How much bigger we can go is hard to know without being able to measure that and get a feel for it even though your video is quite informative. I leave for school in 8 days so if we cant figure it out by then I’ll put out the 107 series as is since at the very least it works. We can try improving upon it throughout the year if as they get printed and more feedback comes in.