nvm i realized that was the last generation truck… the third generation seems to bend up==
would it be possible if i add some plates to push the wheels out by 1-2mm? you think that would work?
The Enertion pulley don’t have the inner flange, so that’s good for you and you can add a few more speedrings to get 1-2mm. Maybe I can do a better meassurement when I’m home today.
damn! would love to hear from you! thanks for all the help!
I did some calculations: total length: 28,7cm 2 Nuts, 2 Speedrings: 1,4cm Wheel + 9mm-Enertion-pulley: 5,2cm each 6355 Motor + Enertion Motor Mount: 6,3cm each
sum: 24,4cm
- bigger motor: +1,9 cm each
- bigger belt: +0,3cm each
= 28,6cm
that’s a bit below 28,7cm but you want some space between pulley and motor mount and between the 2 motors aswell, so I would say no, it’s too close, better go with 9mm belt.
awesome! thanks for the exact measurements! really helped me out a lot
Hey guys, I’m looking for a design for a 48T pulley, 3mm tooth pitch and 12mm belt width to apply on a set of Abec 11 90mm flywheels. I’ve gone through the designs on the post but none seem to fit… am I missing something? Any help would be appreciated guys thanks!
I’ll answer this here @imike in case someone else has the same question, though I did see your pm. These are HTD 5. Meaning they’re 5mm pitch. That is why they do not fit with your 3mm pitch belt.
Boosted used 3mm pitch I believe but their pulley does not work for a flywheel.
@JuniorPotato93, What bolt and nut size do you use? I tried using a 10-32 Nut and it was undersized enough that it freespinned but I could’nt get a wrench in there either… I ended up just placing the bolt on the inside and nuts on the outside
@JuniorPotato93 thanks for the insight. Since these are models couldn’t we get a 3mm pulley and adapt the insert to a flywheel and then print? (I’m not asking you to do that, I can have it done, I’m just asking for the principle…) If so, where could I find a 3mm 3dmodel?
Thanks for the great work @JuniorPotato93. I have a question regarding the best print filament for these pulleys. I read a lot about PETG in this thread, but elsewhere I also read something about nylon and ABS. So my question is what filament is the best for durable pulleys? I have heard that PLA is to temperature sensitive, but what about Nylon and ABS. Thanks.
@PXSS I dont think you are using a 10-32 bolt/screw if the nut is capable of freely rotating in the socket. The most common width of a 10-32 or a 10-24 threaded nut is 3/8th. These sockets are just slightly over sized (by about .75mm if I remember correctly) to allow for some shrinkage and for tolerances stack up. I’ve printed these myself to ensure they work before I uploaded the series. That being said you you can put the heads in the back and the nuts on the front too, functionally it’s the same. It will still clamp.
@imike, Yes it can be done. You can find the file you are searching for at B&B Manufacturing’s website. I’m in the midst of my last wave of midterms but if you pm your email and give me a week or two that is a relatively simple request I could do that for you.
@hexakopter PETG is an all round great filament if you have it, if not you can use anything really. All 3D printed pulleys will wear as will CNC’ed pulleys it’s just a matter of the rate at which they do it. Obviously 3D printer filaments wear faster, the difference between the same pulley in different filaments I’m not sure. you can expect a couple hundred miles, from ABS from what I hear. Nylon you can expect even more from. Nylon pulleys made on a SLS 3D printer have the best wear resistance I’ve seen and compare in quality and build to that of a nylon injected pulley. Very solid pieces, but they cost more but you could get a thousand miles out of it potentially, I dont really know.
Long story short, if you’re printing these yourself use what you’ve got, you’re going to have to replace them eventually anyways. If you’re having them printed, PETG or ABS is suitable, PLA not so much, nylon if it’s not substantially more may be worth it. if it is, stick with the cheaper option.
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Pretty sure I have 10-32s… Just measured my nuts to be sure and surely they are 3/8s. The hole is substantially larger in my print. Measured 50 thousands larger in diameter which is just slightly smaller than the diagonal length so they still spin when you apply any torque.
An oversized of more than 20 thousands in my experience is way over. I personally oversized between 10-15 thousands depending on material
@JuniorPotato93 thanks man! I was on the B&B Manufacturing’s websitebut was not sure which file to pull… if you could help me out it would be so awesome! Just point me in the right direction and I’ll take it from there!.. if I can’t then I’ll take you up on your offer!!
Btw, I feel that the flywheels will be wider than the trucks… what options should I look into? New wider trucks?
What printer and filament are you using? This has never come up as a predominant issue before apart from once someone was using M4 screws and nuts instead of 10-32.
Sorry, which file are you printing exactly.
Ultimaker 2 which prints fairly accurate, holes are usually undersized about 5 thousands. I used Gizmodorks PLA and ABS, both came out the same.
I am printing flywheel 36t
Ya’ll must have great printers. My Prusa i3 will print 1mm +/- on screw holes in my enclosures. I usually draw them smal, add thick walls and print with a hi infill and then drill them out.
Hmm… I’m really at a loss here. I printed all my test pieces on a lolzbot taz 5 with PETG and I all prints are consistently +/- .007" on linear dimensions and all my inner radius on holes smaller than 1/2 inch seemed to shrink or experience significantly more deviation than that.
This is what I would do for most holes under 1/2 that I’d print