18650 10s3p battery for the Village Build - Update 10s4p

Thanks man! Do you have a link to that fuse holder? I have a couple of the fecther/vedder 1.3 anti-sparks left i want to put the easier swap fuse into.

I’m also going to hit you up on some 15mm setups soon. Gears and such.

It’s this type:

When using those switches make sure to have it in OFF state before connecting the power source. Else it might not work well in the beginning and will remain in ON state. If that happens just put the switch to OFF and dis- and reconnect the power source again.

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Thx @sl33py The BMS in the pic here is the HCX-D223V1 from Bestech. I ended up ordering has an e-switch, but I’m not sure about trickle draw. Yes it handles spark. I’ll update the parts list above.

http://www.bestechpower.com/37v10spcmbmspcbforli-ionli-polymerbatterypack/PCM-D223V1.html

Update: I had 33 cells and decided to top it off to 10s4p. I bought the remaining 7 cells on Amazon. Based on voltage and weight they seem legit.

How quick were they to reply to you? I inquired on two a few days ago and haven’t heard back.

Also, how much were they?

@Eboostin We contacted them for a group buy, so they may have been more responsive to us for the bulk sale. I suggest that you keep trying. Once they establish a thread w you, it goes pretty smoothly. ~75usd

I’m not sure that I’m going to be able to fit 10s4p into the enclosure for this pack. I’m outta room and I still have to fit a VESC, receiver, and all the other stuff…

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Try without the cases. How thick is the bms?

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Thanks @MasterCho the BMS is the problem here… it’s 80a and larger than a typical BMS for this purpose. I’ll try out the fitting without the boxes; I might gain a few centimeters once the pack is all glued together. If I’m careful I might be able to stack the VESC and the BMS on top of each other, but that presents a bunch of other potential problems (namely heat and the danger of shorts.

I am wondering if it can be placed on the top or under of the batteries on the deeper side of the enclosure facing the front of the deck.

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Thanks @MasterCho this is a good suggestion! I need the BMS (which is the root of discharge in this case) to be close to the VESC since I use FOC mode… further than 20cm and FOC has issues.

I think that running the discharge cable all the way across the enclosure might be too much. I’ll experiment with different configurations once the packaging comes off.

maybe wire the battery to bypass bms and only use bms for charging? You can slim down the bms in this case as well.

This is what I’m doing for my battery build as well, and is how the Space Cell Pro’s are configured.

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@Jinra @MasterCho everything fits much better with the batteries unpackaged. I think that each box took just a little but of space, but added up reduced the available footprint significantly!

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@Ulfberht have you tried to spot weld this .25mm nickel stripping? I maxed out my spot welder and couldn’t even get through it! Any leads on a good supplier for .15mm strips? I’m thinking I can double up where needed.

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What spot welder are you using?

@Eboostin a Sunkko 788. It works well with the thinner strips, but I can’t seem to make a connection with the .25mm strips. Any thoughts on settings to improve the situation?

Unfortunately I don’t have any suggestions. I am about to purchase a spot welder and am between the 788 and 709a.

Some members have had luck with these nickel strips from ebay, I had this saved from another thread. Says out of stock but you might try contacting the seller to see if/when they’ll have more.

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OH man!! I haven’t had a chance to try em’ out with everything going on lately. I have the same welder, so I might need to rethink going with such a thick strip or try a different welder. I suppose the option to solder direct to cell is there too. I have an 80W Weller soldering rig that would probably work OK, but I would like to spot weld them to save a little time. Thanks for posting your results. This is disturbing news. LOL Here’s an interesting option that is supposed to have higher conductivity and is @.127 instead of the massive .25. A little spendy, but worth a second look. http://www.ebay.com/itm/15ft-6-35mm-x-127mm-Nickle-Strip-Tape-for-A123-ANR26650-18650-battery-welding-/222252530128?hash=item33bf4879d0:g:BnMAAOSwV0RXtJ5G

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@Ulfberht interesting! But, isn’t nickel-coated steel considered the worst option? That’s what we’re aiming to avoid with the salt-water testing right? :slight_smile:

Could someone help us to understand whether this is just marketing-speak for low-quality stripping?

I believe it’s copper core. I would like to hear if there is any other opinions about this stuff. It sounds like it could be good, but it could just be mostly hype. It’s not like the gaps are going to be that big for the current to flow across. Copper is going to have lower resistance and handle plenty of current. I like the corrosion resistance of pure nickel, but I’m open minded about whatever works well and is easier to manipulate. I really liked the quality of the 12.7mmx .25 Pure nickel strips, but…

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