it’s fine but why spend the extra money and space? if you want a smaller pack getting a lower discharge bms will save space as well
I’m planning to add 2 more 10S packs later, just planning for the future.
you’ll most likely be fine with a 60A bms don’t think you’ll need 80.
Bigger packs last much longer. I would recommend at least 3 parallel. Street boards won’t pull more the 30A from what I have read so 80A is way over kill. Usually people only pull 5 amps when riding.
well then, I’ll downgrade when I can.
This may interest you:
If you already purchase the 80A bms just use it. Overkill is not bad or anything if anything its a good thing cause things then run cool. Heat is wasted energy and just damages things. Also I do not get the BMS paragon is selling. It is only rated for 20A continuous. For e-skate 40 amp is the bare minimum. 60A will work for everything and 80A also would work just as well if not better.
I would feel bad if you got a new BMS even though it would work perfectly fine.
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Yea if you already have a bms it’s no problem. Just know you can go smaller and be fine. Paragon’s bms is a good choice too if you bypass it for discharging.
yeah, I already have the 80A bms, it’s 2 times the size of a normal one but that shouldn’t be too big of a problem because my deck can accommodate it.
Great! Again there is no need to downgrade to 60A unless you want something a little smaller. Overspecing your board will make it last longer in the end 
Just wondering if anyone knows the BMS’s charging procedure when charging these li-ion cells. For example can it regulate the inputted voltage and amperage so that you’re not frying your battery, and does it balance each cell while charging like a normal hobby battery charger would? BMS’s seem very convenient but if they’re charging the battery in an incorrect manner I wouldn’t want to use one.
Most BMS’s work by charging from a single source and measuring voltage across each cell as it’s charging. Once it hits the balance voltage (about 4.18v) it will switch to a lower balance charge current which will keep all cells in balance. You’ll want to read the documentation on the BMS you’re interested in to make sure it fits your needs.
Hello i’m trying to do a 10s lipo pack with two 5000mah 5s batteries and wire to the bms for easy charge. So i need help to how i can wire the batteries with the bms and a swithc on and off.
Can you help me with some pictures or examples that you made…
Thanak’u
You’ll need a BMS with an e-switch. Wiring is dependent on the BMS you get, so how 1 person does it may be different than how another does it. Check here for examples.
European e-skaters. Is there any european bms dealer? It’s almost cheaper build 2 x 10s packs than one with bms.
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Hello how fast i can go and long with a 190kv motor and 6s4p pack? And with a 10s3p, 10s4p?
I’m starting with diy electric lognboards so i do not know by a 100% wich option is better because probably a 10s pack i so much… I don’t know
Thank’u so much
Depends on your gearing ratio, wheel size, your weight, etc. 6s = 22.2v 10s = 37v
So: 22.2v x 190kv = 4218rpm 37v x 190kv = 7030rpm
As you can see 10s is about 60% faster.
And for range you would need to provide the data on the cells you want to use as they have different Ah ratings.
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So let’s say I have a 8s pack with bms that is fully charged at 33.6v and I input 36v. Will this over charge my batteries or is the bms able to regulate the voltage and not over charge the batteries? Also does a soft switch work as an anti spark switch?
Check the BMS datasheet, but it should prevent your individual cells from going beyond the specified voltage. An e-switch would negate the need for an anti-spark switch.